[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Mon Sep 6 12:54:00 PDT 2021

 I checked the distributor not long ago. It has all the springs and
everything in place. I also checked the mechanical advance and it does not
advance more than what a 73 should . I forget right now what that was. I
got a good vacuum advance can yet when I installed it once the engine was
hot it would ping . What I think is the reason is when I rebuilt it, the
new pistons were flat top. Did the rebuild in 1997 the machine shop also
fly cut the heads just to clean up the mating surface. Last time I was
playing around with the timing it seemed to run a bit stronger with the
timing retarded a bit think it's at 3  BTDC . It used to be fine at 5 BTDC
yet once the fuel changed over the years it got worse. I just had an auto
zone timing light I got years ago so the best I could do is the one harbor
freight offers that has an advance knob yet I haven't used it yet.

On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 12:23 PM Phil Hof <phil.hof at ostronic.org> wrote:

> I am glad to see it presented that 220 is a MINIMUM and not a sign of
> overheating.  It is necessary to boil off water from condensation and
> anything less will not do that.
> I also have an overheating problem, as many know, from my broken
> distributor on the return for the Invasion five years ago.  260-280 is too
> hot, and that’s how mine runs on the freeway, so the engine is now out and
> stripped for another rebuild.
> I also have learned a lot about viscosity and the operation of the
> dual-relief case plungers.  Thicker oil may boost pressure, but it will
> “look” like thick cold oil and the plunger will bypass the oil cooler,
> making it run hotter, not cooler.  20-50 is not thicker when cold, but
> stays a little too thick when hot and so the cooler may be bypassed.  I ran
> this oil for years without trouble, but I was probably shortening the life
> of the motor.  Live and learn.
> If yours is running hot, check the timing… not just static, but also the
> eventual advance at higher rpm and vacuum.  That’s how mine failed.  Broken
> spring posts or weights meant it never stopped increasing with rpm… right
> up to 45 degrees mechanical advance!
> -Phil
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2021 22:22:47 -0400
> > From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
> > To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> > Subject: Re: [T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?
> > Message-ID: <001b01d7a2c6$186d4e80$4947eb80$@nycap.rr.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Quite a few varibles, what is your oil viscosity?  Oil light with 10W30
> is
> > not as bad as with 25W50,
> > Still, its an indication of a worn engine, but not necessarily worn out.
> > The sender is also part of the equation, the good german ones come on at
> > 5PSI,
> > The cheap ones don?t come on till there is virtually no pressure.
> >
> > When the engine was new, the idle with 30wt on a hot day at about 12psi.
> >
> > 180 oil temp is cool
> > 220 is starting to get warm
> > 230 its getting warmer
> > 240 its time to back off a bit, that?s hot, although it will tolerate
> that
> > for some time with good oil, but these are
> > OIL temps, not the temp of the block, or the cooler, which is what you
> get
> > with a sender screwed into anything..  its heat sunk on the block
> > And is 20-30 degree's cooler than the actual oil around it.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > Topnotch Restorations
> > topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> > http://www.topnotchresto.com
> > 71 Squareback? ?Hothe?
> > 65 Notchback? ?El Baja Rojo?
> > 93 RX7? ?Redstur?
> > 13 Subaru?Outback?"Blendin"
> >
> > -
> > *************************************************
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