[T3] 73 T-3 oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Sat Sep 25 09:21:29 PDT 2021

I don't know if  anyone remembers. A while back I was having issues
starting the car in the morning. I use a primer switch and even when I hold
the primer switch when cranking it still won't fire right up , I need to
give it a bit of gas or it will quit. If it quits the second time it fires
right up.

 I repaired the electric AAR over a year ago because it was not closing and
kept the idle high. I suspect it is now stuck closed , the reason is
because when I repaired it I  would use the prime switch till I heard no
more air in the lines. It would fire right up and the idle would be a bit
higher , in 5 minutes  it would drop back to 1000 RPM in neutral. Now when
it starts it's always at 1000 RPM.  From what I recall the AAR acts as a
sort of choke by allowing in more air the MPS senses a vacuum leak and
enriches the mix. Always has to be something to fix. Taking the eclectic
AAR apart is not something that's in any way fun. I always read about the
people with FI who have the standard trans and the oil heated AAR having to
constantly clean and adjust them.

 I haven't checked it yet , yet I bet if I blow on the hose from the oil
bath I'll find it is closed all the time. I can live with it , my main
concern is running down the battery. I don't drive far enough most of the
time for the charging system to charge it back fully. Most of the time when
I check the battery it's @ 12.5 volts . Drove it a mile yesterday, checked
the voltage and it was 12.97 after shut down. Once that surface charge
drops off I bet it's back to 12.5 or  close to it. I use a charger set on 2
amps on a timer set for 2 hours because this charger does not  have a shut
off feature . If it's 12.5 it takes 4 hours to bring it back to 12.7 VDC.
If I sit in traffic long enough I can see the voltmeter getting near 12.5
volts so I put it in neutral because @ 1000 RPM it's back up to 14.2 VDC.
I need to pull the battery just to check if the level in each cell is fine.
I check it once a year and last year it was fine. It's an interstate MT42
and the last thing I need right now is spending money on a battery. Even
when it's 12.5 volts it cranks over fine I think 12.5 is 90% charged.


On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 6:09 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 21 Sep 2021 at 19:11, William Jahn wrote:
> > Since I rebuilt this engine in 1997, 24 years ago.  would it be worth
> > removing both relief valves just to see if they are still moving free? I
> > read if you change the oil regular they should be fine and I have.
> They are almost certainly fine. I've never seen one that was stuck, but
> I've
> only worked on hundreds of cars, not thousands. Keep in mind that if you
> have a stuck piston, it is most likely stuck in the upper position which
> would
> produce higher oil pressure, not lower.
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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