[T3] Brake Hints!

[William Jahn]

I tried to locate new caliper bleeders , the ones that seem the best are
Raybestos R-Line Brake Bleeder Screw S23928. Vivid racing had these yet I
ordered and they were out . The Dorman are not the proper taper . All the
rest are either Empi speed bleeders or the high end speed bleeders which
are not a 7 mm hex . Then there is rock auto IAP brand southern cal with
some unbranded make, their site states these are used in AC industries
calipers which are AA performance products, they look like the stock ones.
Mine may be fine. I'd  rather have new ones.

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 1:37 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> As far as just flushing the rears. I thought just doing the rears did
> something to the master as far as the seal location. All I read was to do
> the fronts first.
>
>  I see the boot on mine is a bit swollen yet I don't see brake fluid on
> the push rod. When I replaced the under tank fuel lines a week ago I did
> see some fluid near the outside by the rear circuit yet it's  not on the
> warning switches or coming from the reservoir hose or MC grommet. It has
> not changed in 6 years since I last changed the under tank lines.
>
>  I'd rather get all the old fluid out then as I said before if the
> bleeders  on the calipers break free I will remove the calipers and rebuild
> them. I got seafoam deep creep and liquid wrench in the oil form.
>
>  I don't mind if gravity bleeding is slow as long as all the old fluid
> comes out . I read somewhere if you do slow pumps on the pedal to start the
> gravity it helps. I don't have anyone to pump the pedal for me. I agree
> fast pumping does a better job as you noted. Some do it using a hose and
> bottle on the bleeder the bottle hose in brake fluid and it works yet some
> air can be drawn in around the bleeder threads. Then there are speed
> bleeders , I don't know how well these work.
>
> On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 1:15 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
>> On 28 Aug 2022 at 12:56, William Jahn wrote:
>>
>> > I worry about how long it's been since I replaced all the old fluid.
>> It's
>> > not that I never did , I remove as much from the reservoir then add new.
>> > It's been since 98 since I replaced all the fluid. And new MCs are not
>> > cheap. I read somewhere even new ones sitting too long , even plugged
>> might
>> > need new seals. I read this , but I don't know how true it is.
>>
>> NOS Type 3 tandem MCs used to run about $125; now they seem to have
>> doubled. I get quite a few NOS MCs sent to me to inspect, before the
>> buyer
>> goes to all the trouble to install them. So far, they've all been fine.
>>
>> > I'm not sure if gravity bleeding will make it possible to replace the
>> > fluid.
>>
>> It will, but it's slow. I prefer fast pumping, to stir up dirt and pump
>> it out. It's
>> pretty disgusting how nasty that fluid can become after a few years.
>> That's
>> one more point in favor of DoT-5.
>>
>> BTW, if you think flushing fresh fluid thru everything is more than you
>> want
>> to do, just flush the rear circuit, as that's the one that's connected to
>> the
>> mouth of the MC.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
>> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
>> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
>> If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
>>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20220828/c11b7a0d/attachment.htm>