[T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 140, Issue 1

Phil Hof phil.hof at ostronic.org
Mon May 2 20:45:24 PDT 2022

Thanks for all the ideas, Jim.

Most of these have been eliminated… new electronic regulator a couple of years ago, voltmeter on the dash verifying output, starter/solenoid connections correct (since the wire had become loose and pulled off, I checked it when putting the engine back in).

Ii still haven’t run the second (hot) lead for an engine bay remote start switch, but that’s the next step.

Thanks for the CSV info.  Tram made me feel dumb because he pointed out I don’t need a new connection or to figure out the jet needs… all I have to do is temporarily jump the temp sensor (used to be therm-time switch) to ground ,and it will operate the jet, at least while cranking.  <Phil dope slaps his forehead here>

Next Sunday I’ll get the rest ready and venture in the local neighborhood (so I’m not far for home when it quits) and check woeful and spark.  Fingers crossed!

I also replaced the 123 distributor with the stock unit, just to be able to static time it easier, and because the 123 unit refused to be gripped by my clamp, and could move off the correct setting easily.  I’ll figure out why once this main problem is resolved.  New SP leads, too… the old ones are maybe 8-10 years old, and the connectors could be failing (though unlikely to have all fail at once!).


> ------------------------------
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 01 May 2022 10:44:40 -0500
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Voltage and current requirements of Cold Start Jet?
> Message-ID: <626EAAE8.18052.5B4A9BAB at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> The CSV gets the full 12 V from the system. I just measured the resistance 
> of one, and got ~4 Ohms, so the max current should be about 3 A.
> That said, I think there is probably a much better way to sort this out.
> First, get a remote starting switch from your FLAPS. That connects to the 
> starter terminals and has a long wire with a switch on the end that you can 
> use to run the starter from anywhere you like. Of course, if you have a friend 
> who can turn the key for you, you won't need this.
> Then, if you have a timing light with an inductive pickup, you can use that to 
> check each HV spark plug wire to see if current is going thru it. If the lamp 
> flashes, you have spark. If you have spark, you can check the timing.
> Finally, you said your engine dies when it gets warm.  If it still has spark 
> when it dies and won't restart, I'm going to guess that this means that it's 
> running too rich. There are a three things that can cause this.
> One is the CSV running all the time. This can be caused by the temp sensor 
> wire getting shorted to ground instead of going thru the temp switch. Or the 
> temp switch being defective. The easy way to check this would be to unplug 
> the CSV electrical connection and see if this cures the problem.
> Second, if your car is a late '71 or a '72, it can be caused by misconnected 
> wires on the starter, which often happens during a starter replacement. 
> There's an easy diagnosis for this: If the fuel pump runs continuously when 
> you turn the key ON, those wires are misconnected. The pump should only 
> run for ~1 second when you turn the key ON, unless you start the engine.
> Third, if your voltage regulator is worn out, the regulating voltage will drop 
> and this makes the FI run rich. The regulating voltage should be above 14 V. 
> If it drops below 13.5 V, replace the voltage regulator. The Bosch part # is 
> 30-019. To check this, measure the voltage across the battery while you run 
> the engine speed up. The voltage will increase with RPM until it reaches a 
> plateau where it flattens out. The flat part is where the voltage is being 
> regulated. That's the voltage the voltage regulator is regulating at.  
> You can also make these measurements at the generator, but the voltages 
> will be about 1/2 V higher, so normal at the generator would be above 14.5 
> V, replace the VR if below 14 V.  
> A worn out VR is a VERY common, and easily fixed, problem with our FI 
> cars. I have a  more complete writeup on this if you want it.  
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************

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