[T3] Check valve

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Mon Jan 8 20:10:03 PST 2024

Jim rebuilt a pump for me a long time ago and ive never worried about it
again.  The check valve did leak down, more cranking to start, and I 
Suspect as he said it would seal with time but I loved my one compression
stroke starts and was impatient so I put a separate check valve in line with
And that solved the problem completely.

After all these years, if you really want reliability with the FI you really
need the pump rebuilt and Jim takes care of all the potential issues.


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  “Hothe”
65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
93 RX7  “Redstur”
13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> On
Behalf Of jadney at vwtype3.org
Sent: Monday, January 8, 2024 9:07 PM
To: TOM MITORAJ <rebs12 at prodigy.net>; type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Check valve

On 9 Jan 2024 at 0:28, TOM MITORAJ wrote:

> I´m not sure the check valve in the fuel pump is holding fuel 
> pressure. Where in the fuel line could I put a check valve in the 
> system? Is the any certain check valve I should use? Thanks Tom

When I rebuild the pumps, I replace the rubber tip on the check valve with
one made from Teflon. The Teflon is harder than the OE rubber so it may not
seal perfectly, although I expect it to "cold flow" eventually and seal. The
advantage is that I can machine it to the proper shape and it will never
fail as the rubber parts do.

The check valve is only useful after shutdown. It does nothing while the
engine is running. If the leakback causes hard starting, my recommendation
is to install one of my fuel pump primer switch kits; perhaps you already
have one of them. All my Type 3s have them, because they are often needed,
even if the check valve is working.

Do you already have one?

Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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