[T3] Oil change

[Jim Adney]

I use a rather ordinary diesel oil plus the LucasOil ZDDP additive. This costs 
less but still gets the ZDDP level up where it's needed for our flat tappet 
cams.

I remove the drain plug, sump plate, and filter screen. I just clean them with 
a rag. More careful cleaning might be necessary if the screen turns out to be 
nasty, but mine never are. Most of the sediment will be on the sump plate 
and wipes off easily.

I typically re-use the gaskets and washers. I'll replace gaskets if they get 
torn. The new washers are just copper plated steel, so I'll reuse old copper 
ones as long as I can.

Yes, gentle torque on the nuts is critical. DO NOT OVERTORQUE, you can 
pull out the studs. Clean the nuts carefully before reinstalling. Don't get dirt 
in them, to make sure they thread on smoothly.

NOTE! Most new aftermarket replacement nuts are not threaded sufficiently 
deep. They will screw on nicely, then jam. Forcing them further will thread 
the studs up into the case. Next time the stud will be stuck in the nut and will 
come out with the nut. New nuts need to be carefully bottom tapped to allow 
them to thread all the way onto the stud without jamming.

I made a fixture/guide to drill & tap stripped case holes for M6 Helicoils. 
When I do rebuilds, I like to replace the studs with bolts, with the heads 
inside. Those bolts have to be shortened to just the right length.

Jim

On 5 May 2024 at 15:03, Gary Forsmo wrote:

> 1.)  Because of the high ZDDP content, I favor using Amsoil 10W 30 or10W 40
> Z-Rod Racing Oil.
> My 1969 Squareback, 1600 engine  "summer driver" only logs ~ 3,000 per year.
> 
> 2.)  What I *don't like* is the price.  $179.65 for a 12-quart case.
> That's $14.97/quart.
> An oil change cost:  About $45.00.  But it's only an *annual* oil change &
> is affordable.
> 
> 3.)  Question:
> When you do an oil change do you
>           A.)  Remove the sump plate?  Or just the oil plate drain nut?
>           B.)  Wash the filter screen?
>           C.)  Soak to lubricate the two, paper seals in oil for a few
> minutes?
>           D.)  Use the new, copper Lock Washers?  And ...
>           E.)  Torque the 6 nuts to the proper inch/lbs?
> 
> Even though I'm the original, one-owner of this '69, due to a 2001 stroke,
> I have to instruct a "non-VW helper" to "wrench" the correct process.
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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