[T3] Removing Oil Pump - in car (update)

[William Hoyer]

You might want to see what pressure the idiot light goes out and comes back
on before you tear the engine apart. It is possible that something is
affecting the unit at the oil cooler and it takes more than about 10 psi
for it to go out, which I think is the normal range for it. An easy check
to save pulling the engine and rebuilding.

Bill

On Sat, Apr 11, 2026, 1:18 PM EL PUERCO <elpuerco66 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dear Fellow Type 3 People,
>
> I wanted to follow up on this and thank everyone who chimed in.  Great
> tips especially Mark Welton's. Putting the car in 4th and the parking brake
> was plenty to remove and tighten the crank bolt.   Jim's tip of just
> removing the engine side of the bellows and folding it in out of the way is
> the way to go for this procedure.  Getting to the body side screws is
> always a pain.  The hardest part was re-installing the tiny lock which
> holds the flap bar (lacking a better word).  That almost did me in.  I did
> have to remove the right side carb and cylinder tin to access the spring
> because I just could not manage any other way.  Not too bad.
>
> Definitely  an emergency procedure for me, though from now on.  My oil
> pressure problem persists so the issue is internal.  The oil pump had next
> to no wear.  I did use the correct gasket, as I suspected.  The problem I'm
> having is that it takes a long time for the oil light to go out as much as
> 30 seconds when cold and then the oil light will come on as you approach
> operating temps during low revs below 1500 rpm.  Oil weight doesn't make a
> difference.  This engine build has been fighting me the entire way.  Guess
> I'll have to pull it and tear into it.
>
> Thanks, again, for all your help.  Maybe I'll make the 2028 Invasion which
> was my plan this year.  On a happier note, the wife and I are heading to
> Italy this fall!
>
> Jaime
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