[T3] Removing Oil Pump -In Car (update 3)

William Hoyer wjhoyer at gmail.com
Tue Apr 14 15:05:55 PDT 2026


I ran out of ideas, other than truly measuring the oil pressure by putting
a gage in conjunction with the sending unit to see what pressure you really
have. I am running a guage as well as to the light so the unit that screws
into the oil cooler has dual outputs but you have to be careful which wires
go to each.

Bill

On Tue, Apr 14, 2026, 2:20 PM EL PUERCO <elpuerco66 at gmail.com> wrote:

>   1.
> Jim, I torqued it to 95Ft.-Lbs.  No obvious signs of wear on the hubs that
> I noticed and it all fit nice and snug. I always Loctite this one.
>   2.
> Bill, I did check the oil control valves, front and rear, and I don't
> believe they are the issue.
>   3.
> Keith, I use Silverline bearings all the way and always (tough to find
> sometimes).  I do wipe off the coating at final install.  This time I
> happen to use CB Racing rods which do not call for Loctite and come with
> ARP bolts that require grease and a specific torque process.  First, 15 ft
> lbs, then 20, then 25, and finally 29 ft lbs.  Maybe my wrench is off? Or,
> I missed one?
>
>
> One thing I forgot about was that during break in at about 10 minutes
> running around 2500 rpm the oil light came on.  I shut it down right away.
> There was no puddle of oil or signs of oil leakage anywhere which I had
> expected.  After it cooled I ran it again for another 10 minutes to finish
> the break in process as outlined by camshaft instructions and the light did
> not come on this time.    This may have been the start of my issues but I
> just carried on instead.  Doh!
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