[T3] Almost there

Max Welton max.welton.2k at gmail.com
Thu May 7 21:07:33 PDT 2026


So I've resolved a number of problems this year.

Horn: The horn was drawing down the battery. By the time I figured out
that the "rag-joint" was the problem I had disassembled much of the
under-dash wiring and removed the steering column. After screwing
around with different rag-joints looking for something that didn't
leak electrically I finally gave up and moved the horn power to a
switched circuit. I'm using the rag joint that ISP sells. It does leak
but is internally reinforced. The horn now only works with the key on.
I can live with that.

While the dash was apart I solved a different problem with the
emergency flashers. The 9-pin relay would just buzz ... no flashy. The
diagram calls for the flasher switch to be connected to 49a on the
9-pin. I found that by moving it to 54 the flashers would work but
when the key is off the dash indicator doesn't work. I can live with
that.

While the steering column was out I worked on the cancelling mechanism
for the turn signals. That now works and is smooth.

Rear brakes: A recent emergency stop got me focussed on the rear
brakes. The rear drums were a bit out of round and had a smooth,
almost polished surface. I had them cut at a local shop and can now
adjust the rear brakes much closer without the usual high-spots, And
the cut surface works a lot better as well.

Ride quality: The front suspension has been pretty stiff. I've
switched out the front shock for one that ISP sells and reduced the
front tire pressure to 17 PSI. Today I raised the front up by one
notch and that made a dramatic improvement. I may experiment a little
more with the rear tire pressure, but overall it's pretty good now.

Oil leaks: In September I pulled the engine to deal with some serious
leakage at the rear of the engine. I found a torn dip-stick tube, a
missing gasket under the breather and two loose fittings in my
full-flow setup. I congratulated myself on fixing all that stuff and
put the engine back in.

But I still have a leak. Or leaks. I can't see it but it's falling
from the Berg sump on both sides. So it's either the sump (Randy
Bowman tells me they always leak) and/or at the base of the cylinders.
I used "aviation" case sealant at the base of each cylinder and that
may not be working out. I suppose the oil cooler may be leaking but
that wouldn't show on the right side of the engine.

If the invasion was next week I would hit the road with the leak. It
isn't serious enough to make me stay home. But it does make a mess so
I'll be dropping the engine again.

Oh, and I need to hook up the windshield squirter and figure out why
the wipers only run on low speed.

Everything else is cosmetic.

Max


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