[T3] Almost there

[Keith Park]

My berg sump didn’t leak, until it loosened up on the engine and when
tightened it was OK again

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.topnotchresto.com
71 Squareback  “Hothe”
65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
93 RX7  “Redstur”
13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> On
Behalf Of Max Welton
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2026 12:08 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Almost there

So I've resolved a number of problems this year.

Horn: The horn was drawing down the battery. By the time I figured out that
the "rag-joint" was the problem I had disassembled much of the under-dash
wiring and removed the steering column. After screwing around with different
rag-joints looking for something that didn't leak electrically I finally
gave up and moved the horn power to a switched circuit. I'm using the rag
joint that ISP sells. It does leak but is internally reinforced. The horn
now only works with the key on.
I can live with that.

While the dash was apart I solved a different problem with the emergency
flashers. The 9-pin relay would just buzz ... no flashy. The diagram calls
for the flasher switch to be connected to 49a on the 9-pin. I found that by
moving it to 54 the flashers would work but when the key is off the dash
indicator doesn't work. I can live with that.

While the steering column was out I worked on the cancelling mechanism for
the turn signals. That now works and is smooth.

Rear brakes: A recent emergency stop got me focussed on the rear brakes. The
rear drums were a bit out of round and had a smooth, almost polished
surface. I had them cut at a local shop and can now adjust the rear brakes
much closer without the usual high-spots, And the cut surface works a lot
better as well.

Ride quality: The front suspension has been pretty stiff. I've switched out
the front shock for one that ISP sells and reduced the front tire pressure
to 17 PSI. Today I raised the front up by one notch and that made a dramatic
improvement. I may experiment a little more with the rear tire pressure, but
overall it's pretty good now.

Oil leaks: In September I pulled the engine to deal with some serious
leakage at the rear of the engine. I found a torn dip-stick tube, a missing
gasket under the breather and two loose fittings in my full-flow setup. I
congratulated myself on fixing all that stuff and put the engine back in.

But I still have a leak. Or leaks. I can't see it but it's falling from the
Berg sump on both sides. So it's either the sump (Randy Bowman tells me they
always leak) and/or at the base of the cylinders.
I used "aviation" case sealant at the base of each cylinder and that may not
be working out. I suppose the oil cooler may be leaking but that wouldn't
show on the right side of the engine.

If the invasion was next week I would hit the road with the leak. It isn't
serious enough to make me stay home. But it does make a mess so I'll be
dropping the engine again.

Oh, and I need to hook up the windshield squirter and figure out why the
wipers only run on low speed.

Everything else is cosmetic.

Max
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