[T3] Front Latch Hard to Release (was RE: Posting for a friend any ideas?)

Wed Apr 13 18:04:54 PDT 2011

I'll try again - there's a bolt in the lid at the front that sticks down
next to the hook that is holding your hood from flying up when driving.  The
head of it spreads out like a cone and there's a moveable flange with spring
behind the head. The cone goes into the round hole in the latch assembly,
and the latch is pushed aside until the cone gets past it, then the latch
springs back and stops the cone moving up - locking the lid closed.  That
bolt with cone head can be adjusted to make the lid easier to close.  

If you have a lot of rust on the bottom of the lid at the front, it might
make it too tight to close easily.  

Anyway, take a look when you get near your car again.  Maybe it's the
problem, and when you get the cable back in, you may need to adjust the bolt
to get that nice 'click' that is a sign it's adjusted just right!

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
Rowley
Sent: 14 April 2011 01:03
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Front Latch Hard to Release (was RE: Posting for a friend any
ideas?)

I did not want to hijack his thread, but since it needs to be addressed,
will branch off with my own. ;)  I will start before I got the Squareback.

The Squareback was parked on the street, in a somewhat hilly neighborhood by
the ocean (noted due to salt).  Next door there was a work truck in the
driveway, with a repairman inside.  Somehow the truck started rolling, went
down the drive, out the drive, and made a loop around the Squareback,
backing into the front.  Sue was in her house and heard the crash, and could
not believe her eyes; have trouble myself believing it, but truth is
stranger than fiction. ;)  She does not remember what all the repairs were,
but there is two layers of apron along the bottom seam.  There is also over
spray on the cable housing and the paint inspection tag.  I am also missing
the build tag.  

The apron seems to be in the correct place, though the tire is a tad tight. 
If someone wants to measure the distance, be greatly appreciated.  

Sue does think the hood was replaced, and when they installed it, they did
not adjust it far enough back.  I was able to do this, and did make an
improvement on the latch release.  However, the damage was done.  Water
coming from the front would hit the apron and go behind the hood, where it
would get trapped.  Over time, the hood rusted from the inside out.  The
whole inner side is almost completely gone, and there are many holes though
to the outside.  I believe this moister issue also caused the rust that is
on the cable clam and the release.  Dave, is this what you mean by the pin? 
I did tighten the cable but really did not solve anything.

I was given a replacement hood, but I need to paint it.  I have two front
fenders also to do, so has daunted me, but now that I have repainted the
rear inner fenders and wheel wells, not so much, and even less since Jack
taught be the joy of an orbit sander.  I am currently in Tempe studying
Design, so cannot work on the Squareback which is in San Diego.

I was thinking since the body latch is a bit rusted, to replace it, and keep
the old as a spare.  Is this not a good plan?

Dave, any way to depict what you are talking about?

Thank you,
Adriel

----------------------------------------
> From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 00:14:05 +0100
> Subject: Re: [T3] Posting for a friend any ideas?
>
> There are a few million of these cars where the front trunk latch does 
> work, or did until they were scrapped. If the lid isn't excessively 
> tight, which it could be if the front has been flattened and you've 
> not been able to adjust the hinge position to compensate, it sounds as 
> if you may not have the striker pin adjusted correctly. If the locking 
> nut is loosened, you can unscrew the pin until it latches OK, then 
> tighten the locking nut. I guess until you have the glovebox back in 
> with the correct cable, you can't easily release the lid even if you 
> adjust it properly. You will get water in the front if you don't shut the
lid!
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of 
> Adriel Rowley
> Sent: 13 April 2011 07:28
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Posting for a friend any ideas?
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> > From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 00:02:47 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Posting for a friend any ideas?
> >
> > On 12 Apr 2011 at 14:00, Adriel Rowley wrote:
> >
> > > There was a lady on theSamba that had her Squareback trunk latch 
> > > get stuck and used a ruler. I would not use the latch in the glove 
> > > box as it destroys the glove box, Instead, grab the actual cable 
> > > with vise grips.
> >
> > > P.S. I no longer leave the spare in the well. Never could get my 
> > > latch to work right so unlatch it by getting into the spare tire 
> > > well and releasing it.
> >
> > Sounds like the screw that anchors your release lever to the dash is 
> > missing. This screw is commonly left out after the glove box has 
> > been removed for some reason. If that screw is in place, the glove 
> > box will not be damaged.
> >
> I no longer have the glove box installed.  Took it out to get the 
> wipers out, I.I.R.C..  It did not have the screw installed, but found 
> it in the ash tray, where Sue and now I, put all the loose stuff we find.
>
> I replaced the cable because the end was slipping through the latch.  
> It takes two hands to unlatch the trunk and sometimes have to lean 
> into it. I no longer do this, as I saw what forcing it was doing and it
was annoying.
> Tried lubing it, but nothing has worked.  Used bike brake cable for a 
> tandem, but found it stretches too much.
>
> Once I get the hump replaced, get the air box back in, and the wiper 
> system greased and installed, will go at the front next.  I bought 
> another latch that goes on the body and the correct cable.  First plan 
> on replacing the hood to stop water getting into the trunk, which may 
> be the reason the latch is so stiff.  Then replace the latch and 
> instead of rivets use bolts to allow removal for cleaning and greasing 
> in the future, like the early type 3s.  Finally replace the cable, 
> install the glove box, and adjust the hood if needed.
>
> > You can't pull directly on the wire without destroying the outer 
> > housing. It's a LOT better to just replace the screw and fix the 
> > root problem.
> >
> I can: done it several times.  Just get it where it comes out of the 
> housing.  The housing does slide back, F.Y.I..
>
> I have not done this for over year, as was so annoying to have to pull 
> so hard.  It is not simply installing a screw.  It all goes back to 
> the front apron and hood being replaced in the '80s I.I.R.C..  What I 
> do is just leave it cached in the first position but if one of the 
> children or Jack being kind shuts it, I go into the spare tire well.  
> The hood stays in one place when driving, so I do not latch it down.  
> Folks seem to leave the Squareback alone so not really concerned.
>
>
> Thank you,
> Adriel
>
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