[T3] CV

Adriel Rowley adriel_rowley at hotmail.com
Mon Aug 1 08:45:46 PDT 2011


Bryon, did your O.E. switches have yellow paint?  When I looked at my old switches they have a yellow swipe of paint on the corner mating the master cylinder and an Audi symbol in the plastic.  I am now getting concerned that the master cylinder be original, but the bolts holding it in are not corroded, so then set aside my fear.

As for C.V. greasing see if you can find an adapter plate with a Zerk fitting.  It will save the day, literly, as instead of spending hours packing, a few pumps fills the joint and boot.  You do have to leave the boot loose for the grease to escape, then clamp it.  I borrowed mine from a machine shop but did not know where it came from.


Thank you,
Adriel 

> From: spinningrooves at gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 22:56:06 -0700
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] CV
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> Well, I was under the Fastback tonight to bleed the brakes after installing
> a new MC Jim sent me.  I think I wrote here awhile back that I discovered I
> had 2 failed brake light switches.  So I bought new ones and when I
> installed them, they snapped off at the threads and had to be dealt with.  I
> went to a machine shop to get the threads removed.  The cost wasn't bad,
> $30.  I sent it to Jim to have him look it over and make sure metal shards
> or whatever didn't enter the MC when the machine shop drilled out the old
> switch.  The bad news is they used the wrong size bit or whatever and when
> they drilled out my broken switch's threads and they created a bigger hole.
>  The MC was toast.
> 
> (Side note:  The failed switches were Euromax and failed in less that one
> year of use.  The replacement switch that broke off in my MC was "German"
> according to the parts store I bought it from.  It cost 2-3x as much as the
> Euromax switch, but apparently the amount of metal under the threads tapered
> off as it neared the body of the switch.  Consequently, on the last 1/2 turn
> of tightening, the switch broke off.  Jim put two of these same switches on
> my new MC and was successful.  I probably used too much force at the end of
> the tightening, but still....I reefed that hard on the old OE switches when
> I put them back on a couple years ago:  no problem.  Just a warning)
> 
> So, anyway, that's the reason I was under the car today.  But in the process
> of bleeding the brakes, I discovered what I am pretty sure is a tear in my
> RR CV boot - the one closest to the wheel.  I have been under the car alot
> this year and this is the first time I've seen it.  Grease has splattered
> all over the rear axle.  So I've lost some lubrication for sure.
> 
> My question is, at this point, what do I do?  Do I need a new CV joint?  Can
> I just replace the boot?  When do you know if you've lost too much
> lubrication and must replace the part?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  - Bryon, '71 Fastback
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