[T3] Brake Calipers

[Dave Hall]

The bleeder cap is to keep wet and dirt out of the hollow bleeder screw.
You should get one if you ever find one is missing, but a piece of tape is
fine to seal it until you can get one.  Water in there might rust the bottom
of the screw and make it impossible to unscrew without breakage or more
often seal up the bleed hole so it doesn't work.

While engine work going wrong will just be an inconvenience and bodywork
will just look bad, brake work being done wrong can kill you and others you
may hit.  Do make sure you really understand how to do a job, and read all
the manuals you can find to make sure you don't make mistakes like kinking
hoses.  Obviously you won't make that one again.

The lock tabs should be bent up to stop the bolts backing out, though it's
probably unlikely if they are torqued correctly.  "Belt and braces" they
call that.

New brake shoes will take a bit of adjustment when they wear in.

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
Rowley
Sent: 09 August 2011 04:02
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Brake Calipers


Decided to attempt to drive the Squareback down to Imperial Beach this
afternoon, but did not start well.  Finished a Summer class last night, and
have been burning the midnight oil for several nights in a row, then getting
up around seven thirty.  So, accidentally slept until noon, but guess once
in my life will not hurt me. ;)  Got right to her, but could not get the
home made brake bleeder to work.  So, repaired it with R.T.V. adhesive, and
needed to dry.  Tried to get to the rear adjusted, but since I have a heavy
load in the back, could not quite get in the right position.  Then thought I
park it in the drive to be safer.  Nope, battery died down while away.  Try
to find a extension cord to reach it, and find none.  See the neighbor that
has a '67 Beetle talking to another neighbor, and go ask if they have one to
lend.  Neighbor has one, happy bring it home, plug one end in, and realize
it is a few feet short.  This is just not my day.  Get the idea to check in
the Christmas stuff (hands were now clean) and found one just barely long
enough.  Plug in the charger, and it is not humming.  It is a unit I pulled
out of Jack's trash, and figured out the meter does not work, 6 volt circuit
maybe no good since that is the only circuit he needs, and a bit corroded
from being left out in the rain.  I cannot complain, because been working
fine, so will leave it alone until I need to fix it; saved me $50. ;) 
Anyway, so figured it had died, but grabbed the volt meter, and found no
voltage leaving the unit.  So, feel under the seat, and dos not feel like it
is connected.  Shift the load around, and get up the seat to find it is
disconnected.  Connected it, but still not working, then dawns on me there
might be a way to test if power is coming in.  Checked, and the case is
grounded, so used that and the incoming power terminal, and found no
voltage.  Apparently when I went in the house, forgot to plug it back in. 
Duh!  Did that, and check again, and all was good.  Going to leave it over
night on trickle, and see if that lasts me a while.  

With the battery charging, went and checked the bleeder; still needs time to
cure.  The pedal was not pressurizing the system, so thought was due to lack
of fluid getting into the calipers.  Had fluid on the right, but not the
left.  Checked the bleeder valve, and realized it is basically a threaded
plug.  So then why do we put caps on them?  When I had to attach the hoses
to the calipers prior, the hoses got twisted.  Thought nothing of it at the
time, but suspected it today.  So took off both calipers to be sure both
were kosher.  Forgot the bleeder on the left was open, and soon as I got the
hose straitened, had a mini geyser.  Let the air bleed out even though was
the wrong side, but figured it would not hurt if I bled it again after the
right.  The pad clip was pushing the pads inward, so repositioned it so the
clip was on top of the pads, not between it.  Mounted it on the caliper on
the disk, and went in for lunch.  Came back, and the pressure bleeder was
still not cured, so decided to to try and learn something new: gravity
bleed.  Opened the bleeders and let them sit for about fifteen minutes to be
sure there was no air in the system.  While waiting, reinstalled the
calipers, but could not get the bottom tabs to bend onto the bolts due to
lack of clearance.  Bolts properly torqued, so alright to leave the bottoms
unlocked?  

Seemed there was very little air in the system, especially the left.  The
right at first had old DOT-3 or 4 in it, so made sure it drained out.  The
lower bleeders were rusted to the caliper body, so left them.  Figured if it
is not broken do not fix it. ;)  Pedal felt good, but seems the rear shoes
might need adjusting soon.  Do the shoes need to reseat after they have been
reinstalled? 

Did noticed the left caliper is a bit tighter than the left.  I used a paint
can to hold the pedal down, and both grip the same.  Thinking just quit
being paranoid and leave it.  Calipers are not original, as the lock plates
were not locked, and there was anti-seize on the bolts.  Pads also look new,
so will leave them and install the ceramic ones later.  No use wearing out
quality pads grinding down rust. ;)
 		 	   		  
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