[T3] Brake Calipers
Adriel Rowley
adriel_rowley at hotmail.com
Tue Aug 9 18:09:57 PDT 2011
I am upgrading to late calipers, and understand the single bleeders are rare. The rebuilds from Rock Auto had one with one bleeder and the other two. I was told could not specify anything, but could ask.
How would one check, and how do the pads wear different?
I could not afford the $75 per each despite wanting a community member to rebuild them. So had no options but a big company. ;(
Thank you,
Adriel
> From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 23:13:13 +0100
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
> The lower bleed screws are really for draining the fluid when changing it.
> The original calipers (if they had two bleed screws) do have a left and
> right-hand, based on which way the tapered piston retaining plate fits. They
> fit on the lower pin. If yours are replacements, they may have a flat shim
> that fits on both pins, and can be fitted on either wheel, but expect uneven
> wear as a result.
>
> It's a good reason to rebuild the originals.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
> Rowley
> Sent: 09 August 2011 21:58
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
> When I pulled the bleeder, looked as if the inside end had no hole. I put
> caps on the prior calipers, so will see if they are still there so at least
> the tops have caps. The lower bleeders are already rusted into place.
>
> I pay extra attention, but did not consider the twist to be an issue as not
> mentioned in the Bentley or "Look and Listen". If I do not feel something
> is right, I used to take it in, but the shop only made it worse. Think now
> only option be Jack.
>
> I figure they should be locked, but could not get both the flathead and the
> hammer under there. Guess could check it now and then.
>
> Shoes were used before removing, but had to install new wheel cylinders and
> some hardware the shop lost.
>
>
> Thank you,
> Adriel
>
> > From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:42:13 +0100
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
> >
> > The bleeder cap is to keep wet and dirt out of the hollow bleeder screw.
> > You should get one if you ever find one is missing, but a piece of
> > tape is fine to seal it until you can get one. Water in there might
> > rust the bottom of the screw and make it impossible to unscrew without
> > breakage or more often seal up the bleed hole so it doesn't work.
> >
> > While engine work going wrong will just be an inconvenience and
> > bodywork will just look bad, brake work being done wrong can kill you
> > and others you may hit. Do make sure you really understand how to do
> > a job, and read all the manuals you can find to make sure you don't
> > make mistakes like kinking hoses. Obviously you won't make that one
> again.
> >
> > The lock tabs should be bent up to stop the bolts backing out, though
> > it's probably unlikely if they are torqued correctly. "Belt and
> > braces" they call that.
> >
> > New brake shoes will take a bit of adjustment when they wear in.
> >
> > Dave.
> > UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> > ===================
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> > [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
> > Adriel Rowley
> > Sent: 09 August 2011 04:02
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Subject: [T3] Brake Calipers
> >
> >
> > Decided to attempt to drive the Squareback down to Imperial Beach this
> > afternoon, but did not start well. Finished a Summer class last
> > night, and have been burning the midnight oil for several nights in a
> > row, then getting up around seven thirty. So, accidentally slept
> > until noon, but guess once in my life will not hurt me. ;) Got right
> > to her, but could not get the home made brake bleeder to work. So,
> > repaired it with R.T.V. adhesive, and needed to dry. Tried to get to
> > the rear adjusted, but since I have a heavy load in the back, could
> > not quite get in the right position. Then thought I park it in the
> > drive to be safer. Nope, battery died down while away. Try to find a
> > extension cord to reach it, and find none. See the neighbor that has
> > a '67 Beetle talking to another neighbor, and go ask if they have one
> > to lend. Neighbor has one, happy bring it home, plug one end in, and
> > realize it is a few feet short. This is just not my day. Get the
> > idea to check in the Christmas stuff (hands were now clean) and found
> > one just barely long enough. Plug in the charger, and it is not
> > humming. It is a unit I pulled out of Jack's trash, and figured out
> > the meter does not work, 6 volt circuit maybe no good since that is
> > the only circuit he needs, and a bit corroded from being left out in
> > the rain. I cannot complain, because been working fine, so will leave
> > it alone until I need to fix it; saved me $50. ;) Anyway, so figured
> > it had died, but grabbed the volt meter, and found no voltage leaving
> > the unit. So, feel under the seat, and dos not feel like it is
> > connected. Shift the load around, and get up the seat to find it is
> > disconnected. Connected it, but still not working, then dawns on me
> > there might be a way to test if power is coming in. Checked, and the case
> is grounded, so used that and the incoming power terminal, and found no
> voltage. Apparently when I went in the house, forgot to plug it back in.
> > Duh! Did that, and check again, and all was good. Going to leave it
> > over night on trickle, and see if that lasts me a while.
> >
> > With the battery charging, went and checked the bleeder; still needs
> > time to cure. The pedal was not pressurizing the system, so thought
> > was due to lack of fluid getting into the calipers. Had fluid on the
> > right, but not the left. Checked the bleeder valve, and realized it
> > is basically a threaded plug. So then why do we put caps on them?
> > When I had to attach the hoses to the calipers prior, the hoses got
> > twisted. Thought nothing of it at the time, but suspected it today.
> > So took off both calipers to be sure both were kosher. Forgot the
> > bleeder on the left was open, and soon as I got the hose straitened,
> > had a mini geyser. Let the air bleed out even though was the wrong
> > side, but figured it would not hurt if I bled it again after the
> > right. The pad clip was pushing the pads inward, so repositioned it
> > so the clip was on top of the pads, not between it. Mounted it on the
> > caliper on the disk, and went in for lunch. Came back, and the
> > pressure bleeder was still not cured, so decided to to try and learn
> > something new: gravity bleed. Opened the bleeders and let them sit
> > for about fifteen minutes to be sure there was no air in the system.
> > While waiting, reinstalled the calipers, but could not get the bottom
> > tabs to bend onto the bolts due to lack of clearance. Bolts properly
> torqued, so alright to leave the bottoms unlocked?
> >
> > Seemed there was very little air in the system, especially the left.
> > The right at first had old DOT-3 or 4 in it, so made sure it drained
> > out. The lower bleeders were rusted to the caliper body, so left
> > them. Figured if it is not broken do not fix it. ;) Pedal felt good,
> > but seems the rear shoes might need adjusting soon. Do the shoes need
> > to reseat after they have been reinstalled?
> >
> > Did noticed the left caliper is a bit tighter than the left. I used a
> > paint can to hold the pedal down, and both grip the same. Thinking
> > just quit being paranoid and leave it. Calipers are not original, as
> > the lock plates were not locked, and there was anti-seize on the
> > bolts. Pads also look new, so will leave them and install the ceramic
> > ones later. No use wearing out quality pads grinding down rust. ;)
> >
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