[T3] Brake Calipers
Dave Hall
dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Tue Aug 9 15:13:13 PDT 2011
The lower bleed screws are really for draining the fluid when changing it.
The original calipers (if they had two bleed screws) do have a left and
right-hand, based on which way the tapered piston retaining plate fits. They
fit on the lower pin. If yours are replacements, they may have a flat shim
that fits on both pins, and can be fitted on either wheel, but expect uneven
wear as a result.
It's a good reason to rebuild the originals.
Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
Rowley
Sent: 09 August 2011 21:58
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
When I pulled the bleeder, looked as if the inside end had no hole. I put
caps on the prior calipers, so will see if they are still there so at least
the tops have caps. The lower bleeders are already rusted into place.
I pay extra attention, but did not consider the twist to be an issue as not
mentioned in the Bentley or "Look and Listen". If I do not feel something
is right, I used to take it in, but the shop only made it worse. Think now
only option be Jack.
I figure they should be locked, but could not get both the flathead and the
hammer under there. Guess could check it now and then.
Shoes were used before removing, but had to install new wheel cylinders and
some hardware the shop lost.
Thank you,
Adriel
> From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:42:13 +0100
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
> The bleeder cap is to keep wet and dirt out of the hollow bleeder screw.
> You should get one if you ever find one is missing, but a piece of
> tape is fine to seal it until you can get one. Water in there might
> rust the bottom of the screw and make it impossible to unscrew without
> breakage or more often seal up the bleed hole so it doesn't work.
>
> While engine work going wrong will just be an inconvenience and
> bodywork will just look bad, brake work being done wrong can kill you
> and others you may hit. Do make sure you really understand how to do
> a job, and read all the manuals you can find to make sure you don't
> make mistakes like kinking hoses. Obviously you won't make that one
again.
>
> The lock tabs should be bent up to stop the bolts backing out, though
> it's probably unlikely if they are torqued correctly. "Belt and
> braces" they call that.
>
> New brake shoes will take a bit of adjustment when they wear in.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
> Adriel Rowley
> Sent: 09 August 2011 04:02
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] Brake Calipers
>
>
> Decided to attempt to drive the Squareback down to Imperial Beach this
> afternoon, but did not start well. Finished a Summer class last
> night, and have been burning the midnight oil for several nights in a
> row, then getting up around seven thirty. So, accidentally slept
> until noon, but guess once in my life will not hurt me. ;) Got right
> to her, but could not get the home made brake bleeder to work. So,
> repaired it with R.T.V. adhesive, and needed to dry. Tried to get to
> the rear adjusted, but since I have a heavy load in the back, could
> not quite get in the right position. Then thought I park it in the
> drive to be safer. Nope, battery died down while away. Try to find a
> extension cord to reach it, and find none. See the neighbor that has
> a '67 Beetle talking to another neighbor, and go ask if they have one
> to lend. Neighbor has one, happy bring it home, plug one end in, and
> realize it is a few feet short. This is just not my day. Get the
> idea to check in the Christmas stuff (hands were now clean) and found
> one just barely long enough. Plug in the charger, and it is not
> humming. It is a unit I pulled out of Jack's trash, and figured out
> the meter does not work, 6 volt circuit maybe no good since that is
> the only circuit he needs, and a bit corroded from being left out in
> the rain. I cannot complain, because been working fine, so will leave
> it alone until I need to fix it; saved me $50. ;) Anyway, so figured
> it had died, but grabbed the volt meter, and found no voltage leaving
> the unit. So, feel under the seat, and dos not feel like it is
> connected. Shift the load around, and get up the seat to find it is
> disconnected. Connected it, but still not working, then dawns on me
> there might be a way to test if power is coming in. Checked, and the case
is grounded, so used that and the incoming power terminal, and found no
voltage. Apparently when I went in the house, forgot to plug it back in.
> Duh! Did that, and check again, and all was good. Going to leave it
> over night on trickle, and see if that lasts me a while.
>
> With the battery charging, went and checked the bleeder; still needs
> time to cure. The pedal was not pressurizing the system, so thought
> was due to lack of fluid getting into the calipers. Had fluid on the
> right, but not the left. Checked the bleeder valve, and realized it
> is basically a threaded plug. So then why do we put caps on them?
> When I had to attach the hoses to the calipers prior, the hoses got
> twisted. Thought nothing of it at the time, but suspected it today.
> So took off both calipers to be sure both were kosher. Forgot the
> bleeder on the left was open, and soon as I got the hose straitened,
> had a mini geyser. Let the air bleed out even though was the wrong
> side, but figured it would not hurt if I bled it again after the
> right. The pad clip was pushing the pads inward, so repositioned it
> so the clip was on top of the pads, not between it. Mounted it on the
> caliper on the disk, and went in for lunch. Came back, and the
> pressure bleeder was still not cured, so decided to to try and learn
> something new: gravity bleed. Opened the bleeders and let them sit
> for about fifteen minutes to be sure there was no air in the system.
> While waiting, reinstalled the calipers, but could not get the bottom
> tabs to bend onto the bolts due to lack of clearance. Bolts properly
torqued, so alright to leave the bottoms unlocked?
>
> Seemed there was very little air in the system, especially the left.
> The right at first had old DOT-3 or 4 in it, so made sure it drained
> out. The lower bleeders were rusted to the caliper body, so left
> them. Figured if it is not broken do not fix it. ;) Pedal felt good,
> but seems the rear shoes might need adjusting soon. Do the shoes need
> to reseat after they have been reinstalled?
>
> Did noticed the left caliper is a bit tighter than the left. I used a
> paint can to hold the pedal down, and both grip the same. Thinking
> just quit being paranoid and leave it. Calipers are not original, as
> the lock plates were not locked, and there was anti-seize on the
> bolts. Pads also look new, so will leave them and install the ceramic
> ones later. No use wearing out quality pads grinding down rust. ;)
>
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