[T3] type 4 2000cc oil pressure and overheating problem

Jonathan Stiles misterstiles at gmail.com
Fri Dec 9 08:42:33 PST 2011


Post the same question to the Type 2 list.


I am on both and you may find more help from Type 4 experts.

You have a unique setup. In the United States, your bus would have fuel

Your oil pressure is within spec. The Schadek oil pump is a good one.

Everything else seems fine and pretty normal.

Like Jim says, you NEED the foam seal around the engine tin. Also, you need
all of the seals intact. There are almost a dozen on a Type 4. If you are
missing any of the engine seals, fix them first, then go back to your
overheating problem. You also may be missing tin, the heat deflector plate
above the muffler and your thermostatic cooling system.

Refer to www.ratwell.com for a detailed list of tin, seals, deflector
plates and photos of each.

It does sounds like you may be running lean and need to jet the carbs
correctly. Those are pretty small carbs for a 2000cc motor. They are meant
for a 1700cc Type 4, but will work fine if set up correctly.

Try switching to an electric fuel pump to get consistent cool fuel flow
without the worry of vapor-lock. Type 4 PDSIT carbs are prone to vapor lock
and other maladies. Especially if the bakelite spacer is missing between
the intake manifold and the carburetors. There was a good reason VW
discontinued them and switched to fuel injection. They are overcomplicated
and tricky to tune correctly. A set of Kadrons or 36mm Dellortos would
offer better performance, mileage, and reliability. Switching back to Fuel
Injection would be the best, but considering your location, that may be
very difficult.

Your timing is pretty good. Using your stock distributor and with those
carbs on a Type 4, you should be at 0 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC.

What is your altitude? This changes the equation. I am at 5400 feet or 1650
meters above sea level. Less air means less cooling.

Be VERY cautious about the accuracy of your guages. They only give you an
idea of temperature so unless you paid for a very expensive system, the
gauges can be off by up to 50 degrees both ways. I don't recommend using
them unless you are running a performance engine and racing.

A good test of engine cooling is after you have been driving pull over.
Pull the dipstick. If the dipstick is so hot you can't touch it, you are
running too hot.

Also, what kind of weight are you hauling around in that automatic? Be
careful not to overload your Bus. Refer to the max load of the vehicle with
passengers and cargo and don't exceed it. The automatic buses are very,
very, very, slow, have to work harder and are prone to overheating. They
are fine on an American freeway, but as soon as you hit a hill...all bets
are off...

I have close friends who live in Pucon, Chile. They drive a '77 Westfalia
with a Type 1 conversion. Much simpler, but even slower than yours I am

Good Luck!

Jon Stiles

On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 5:21 AM, pablo vial de ruyt
<pablo_vent at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Hi, i from Chile and looking for real empirical experience, need help for
> oil temp problem with my automatic Westfalia 1978 (stock 2000cc, type 4 -
> dual carbs solex 32-34 pdsit-3), my interest is only summer use with long
> travels with my family (need fiability) ....temp range in my country in
> summer is 75-95 Fº. Rebuilt 20 or 30 type 1 engines without problems, but
> first experience with a type 4. Is second time rebuilt my engine in 2
> month.....first time (without fuel pump push rod install) overheating and
> melted after only 40 miles run......possible causes: plugs white lean,
> timing incorrect 10-12º btdc, 7,8 CR, possible low oil pressure, etc....Now
> i rebuilt again (very expensive) crank completly machined 0,25 and check,
> new bearings, new piston and barrels kit, heads ok, and install aftermarket
> Schadeck oil pump (1829 CB performance for type4/914) fit ok , holes
> alignment, but difference size holes oil pump, 7,3 CR , 3º btdc to 850 rpms
> with 28 max (without vacuum hose connected), and increase 125 fuel jets to
> 140 size....This time installed oil pressure and temp gauge for better
> control.
> First check:
> Runs very well but 20 minutes or 3 miles 195 Fº oil temp...with 10-40 psi
> oil pressure range.....
> Second check:
> With 88 Fº exterior temp........20-50 psi cold engine oil
> pressure.......and hot:
> 70 km/h
> 2500 rpm
> 7 idle - 25 psi max oil pressure
> 230 Fº oil temp
> 20W/50 oil
> After highway road to my house oil temp 240 Fº and oil pressure max 20 psi.
> Check again timing and without vacuum hose 28º max....with vacuum hose 35º
> aprox.....and 3º btdc idle.....idle is fine???
> Considerer this.......but need make sure correct position cooler flaps 100
> open and need jets recommend for dual solex 32-34 pdsit-3, now installed
> 140 mains, idle 52,5, airs 160, stock rest.
> My fear is overheating again.
> Appreciate your advice
> Best regards and thanks.
> Pablo V.
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