[T3] type 4 2000cc oil pressure and overheating problem

[Mike Fisher]

Pablo's flaps are messed up according to raygreenwood in this thread
from the Samba in the Type 411-412 Forum.  I guess Greg will probably
delete my Link?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5722718#5722718


On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 8:42 AM, Jonathan Stiles <misterstiles at gmail.com> wrote:
> Pablo,
>
> Post the same question to the Type 2 list.
>
> www.type2.com
>
> I am on both and you may find more help from Type 4 experts.
>
> You have a unique setup. In the United States, your bus would have fuel
> injection.
>
> Your oil pressure is within spec. The Schadek oil pump is a good one.
>
> Everything else seems fine and pretty normal.
>
> Like Jim says, you NEED the foam seal around the engine tin. Also, you need
> all of the seals intact. There are almost a dozen on a Type 4. If you are
> missing any of the engine seals, fix them first, then go back to your
> overheating problem. You also may be missing tin, the heat deflector plate
> above the muffler and your thermostatic cooling system.
>
> Refer to www.ratwell.com for a detailed list of tin, seals, deflector
> plates and photos of each.
>
> It does sounds like you may be running lean and need to jet the carbs
> correctly. Those are pretty small carbs for a 2000cc motor. They are meant
> for a 1700cc Type 4, but will work fine if set up correctly.
>
> Try switching to an electric fuel pump to get consistent cool fuel flow
> without the worry of vapor-lock. Type 4 PDSIT carbs are prone to vapor lock
> and other maladies. Especially if the bakelite spacer is missing between
> the intake manifold and the carburetors. There was a good reason VW
> discontinued them and switched to fuel injection. They are overcomplicated
> and tricky to tune correctly. A set of Kadrons or 36mm Dellortos would
> offer better performance, mileage, and reliability. Switching back to Fuel
> Injection would be the best, but considering your location, that may be
> very difficult.
>
> Your timing is pretty good. Using your stock distributor and with those
> carbs on a Type 4, you should be at 0 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC.
>
> What is your altitude? This changes the equation. I am at 5400 feet or 1650
> meters above sea level. Less air means less cooling.
>
> Be VERY cautious about the accuracy of your guages. They only give you an
> idea of temperature so unless you paid for a very expensive system, the
> gauges can be off by up to 50 degrees both ways. I don't recommend using
> them unless you are running a performance engine and racing.
>
> A good test of engine cooling is after you have been driving pull over.
> Pull the dipstick. If the dipstick is so hot you can't touch it, you are
> running too hot.
>
> Also, what kind of weight are you hauling around in that automatic? Be
> careful not to overload your Bus. Refer to the max load of the vehicle with
> passengers and cargo and don't exceed it. The automatic buses are very,
> very, very, slow, have to work harder and are prone to overheating. They
> are fine on an American freeway, but as soon as you hit a hill...all bets
> are off...
>
> I have close friends who live in Pucon, Chile. They drive a '77 Westfalia
> with a Type 1 conversion. Much simpler, but even slower than yours I am
> sure.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Jon Stiles
>
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 5:21 AM, pablo vial de ruyt
> <pablo_vent at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi, i from Chile and looking for real empirical experience, need help for
>> oil temp problem with my automatic Westfalia 1978 (stock 2000cc, type 4 -
>> dual carbs solex 32-34 pdsit-3), my interest is only summer use with long
>> travels with my family (need fiability) ....temp range in my country in
>> summer is 75-95 Fº. Rebuilt 20 or 30 type 1 engines without problems, but
>> first experience with a type 4. Is second time rebuilt my engine in 2
>> month.....first time (without fuel pump push rod install) overheating and
>> melted after only 40 miles run......possible causes: plugs white lean,
>> timing incorrect 10-12º btdc, 7,8 CR, possible low oil pressure, etc....Now
>> i rebuilt again (very expensive) crank completly machined 0,25 and check,
>> new bearings, new piston and barrels kit, heads ok, and install aftermarket
>> Schadeck oil pump (1829 CB performance for type4/914) fit ok , holes
>> alignment, but difference size holes oil pump, 7,3 CR , 3º btdc to 850 rpms
>> with 28 max (without vacuum hose connected), and increase 125 fuel jets to
>> 140 size....This time installed oil pressure and temp gauge for better
>> control.
>>
>> First check:
>> Runs very well but 20 minutes or 3 miles 195 Fº oil temp...with 10-40 psi
>> oil pressure range.....
>>
>> Second check:
>> With 88 Fº exterior temp........20-50 psi cold engine oil
>> pressure.......and hot:
>> 70 km/h
>> 2500 rpm
>> 7 idle - 25 psi max oil pressure
>> 230 Fº oil temp
>> 20W/50 oil
>> After highway road to my house oil temp 240 Fº and oil pressure max 20 psi.
>>
>> Check again timing and without vacuum hose 28º max....with vacuum hose 35º
>> aprox.....and 3º btdc idle.....idle is fine???
>> Considerer this.......but need make sure correct position cooler flaps 100
>> open and need jets recommend for dual solex 32-34 pdsit-3, now installed
>> 140 mains, idle 52,5, airs 160, stock rest.
>> My fear is overheating again.
>>
>> Appreciate your advice
>> Best regards and thanks.
>> Pablo V.
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