[T3] End Play Ick

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Sat Dec 17 20:13:31 PST 2011


Well, as always, I ask define "Consistantly overheated"  without proper
calibrated gauges on there you really have no idea how hot it is or where.
While these engines don't overheat nicely, if things are right they are darn
hard to overheat.

The big question is, is the end play incorrect because it didn't get set
right or is worn, or because the front main is loose in the saddle due to
its thrust surface being worn, if this is the case you cant adjust it with
the shims and you need a rebuild.

That being said, my last engine that was chewed up by the Amzoil had .060
end play with the front main loose in the saddle because the thrust surface
was worn away, I got another 10K out of that engine before a cracked piston
burned thru.  Those bearings were pretty noisy on startup though!

My current engine had .009 end play at 113K and is still going strong at
125K, I didn't have the balls to take the flywheel off and see if that front
main was loose in the case but with the mileage and the previous experience
I thought it was best to leave enough alone.

Keith


Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Know One
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 9:59 PM
To: T3
Subject: [T3] End Play Ick

I took my engine out to replace the front seal as it was leaking constantly,
but not quite enough to get onto the clutch. Took it to the local VW Tech
Day to get an assist in removing the gland nut. The flywheel and clutch
plates showed a bit of overheating.

Before we got around to removing it, I remembered that I should check the
end play. Someone there had a flex attach dial indicator under the front
seat, so we checked it. Recall that it should be at a max of .006".

Mine was between .014" & .015". I stopped there and didn't remove the
flywheel pending discussion.

History of the motor is murky (although all on my watch, so I can't blame a
PO). It was rebuilt over 25 years ago, it was used for a 100 mile per day
commute in hot conditions, continuously overheated so got parked, family
stuff got in the way and the car sat for about 14 years. I've been gradually
getting it back in order the past few years, so rebuilt heads, cleaned it
up, got it running. Speedometer wasn't working for a few years, so I have no
clue as to the mileage. Odds are that it's easily over 50k miles. A recent
compression check showed that it ranged from 110 to 120.

So, how bad is end play of .014"?

Dig in and replace the seal hoping is works better than now?
Park it until I can afford a rebuild?
Door number 3?
Keep driving it and replace oil as needed?

Jeff '67 Sqbk
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