[T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam

[Keith Park]

>
I had a real problem with dissembling the other beam, and be worth two hours
to save four to six, and the frustration of chasing it.  Those ball joint
nuts
are a real pain. ;/  Plus, cannot get it running, so might as well do this
and
maybe I can get an answer back or figure it out myself.


Yes, you want to get everything apart now while its easy to get at and so
you can haul it to someone with an Oxy torch if needed.  All the ball joint
bolts need to be free to do an alignment anyway, as do the tie rods, and you
don’t want to waste $100 on an alignment that wont hold if the inner
bearings or bushings are worn, and this is common on neglected cars.

> If you bend the lower arm toward the rear the caster angle between the
upper
> and lower arms gets less, or even negative.
>
Ah, got it.  Amazing how a simple suspension is a bit complicated with
angles.

> Usually one side is bent, but if they jumped a curb it could be both
sides.
>
> I generally put 5mm caster shims in it behind the lower section of the
beam,
> but until its all together you wont know exactly what the caster is
anyway.
>
Where do you get these shims?  I rather put them in now if it will help a 
undamaged beam, but if not...  Or could just mount up four bolts then be
easy
to drop it if there was a issue.

I make them, basically you want a non compressable shim on the back side of
the lower rubber bushing, can be between the bushing and beam or the bushing
and cradle, you may need slightly longer lower clamp bolts too.. especially
to get things started.  Extra caster is a good idea, even with a good beam,
Ive NEVER seen one start right out with 4 degrees.

Keith



Thank you,
Adriel
 		 	   		  
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