[T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam

Adriel Rowley adriel_rowley at hotmail.com
Mon Jul 4 08:54:22 PDT 2011




----------------------------------------
> From: topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 09:52:37 -0400
> Subject: Re: [T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam
>
> >
> I had a real problem with dissembling the other beam, and be worth two hours
> to save four to six, and the frustration of chasing it.  Those ball joint
> nuts
> are a real pain. ;/  Plus, cannot get it running, so might as well do this
> and
> maybe I can get an answer back or figure it out myself.
>
>
> Yes, you want to get everything apart now while its easy to get at and so
> you can haul it to someone with an Oxy torch if needed. All the ball joint
> bolts need to be free to do an alignment anyway, as do the tie rods, and you
> don’t want to waste $100 on an alignment that wont hold if the inner
> bearings or bushings are worn, and this is common on neglected cars.
>
I did not need a torch last time and the only issue I have been having is the
tie rods.  How would things not be easy to get to?  If the fenders are in the 
way, one needs to come off and not be that hard to pull the other. ;)

I plan on doing an alignment, so good point.  I was recommended a place by a
friend, recommended it to another, and they would not do an alignment 
supposedly because it was too hard to get it all apart.  I was thinking of
greasing the treads to keep them locking up: is that a good idea?

Brian has offered a big help in he has a set of tie rods with the ends 
removed that he is going to trade for a together set.  

> > If you bend the lower arm toward the rear the caster angle between the
> upper
> > and lower arms gets less, or even negative.
> >
> Ah, got it.  Amazing how a simple suspension is a bit complicated with
> angles.
>
> > Usually one side is bent, but if they jumped a curb it could be both
> sides.
> >
> > I generally put 5mm caster shims in it behind the lower section of the
> beam,
> > but until its all together you wont know exactly what the caster is
> anyway.
> >
> Where do you get these shims?  I rather put them in now if it will help a
> undamaged beam, but if not...  Or could just mount up four bolts then be
> easy
> to drop it if there was a issue.
>
> I make them, basically you want a non compressable shim on the back side of
> the lower rubber bushing, can be between the bushing and beam or the bushing
> and cradle, you may need slightly longer lower clamp bolts too.. especially
> to get things started. Extra caster is a good idea, even with a good beam,
> Ive NEVER seen one start right out with 4 degrees.
>
I thought this is what you say in regards to manufacture and placement.  Could 
go to the plastics shop and get some 1/8" or 3/16" sheet and shape it.  Do you
notice the steering getting heavier?

Trouble with getting longer bolts is the shops around here only sell standard
grade, and I thought they are hardened. 

Why do you think they never start out with the correct caster?

----------------------------------------
> From: topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 09:57:40 -0400
> Subject: Re: [T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam
>
> Yea, you have to pull the tank! Watch out for those critters...
>

Russ said you do not have to, but one would need to have patience

which I lack sometimes, especially when my back pain flairs up

like it is now.



No kidding!  Ace is closed, so have to decide if I want to wait.


Thank you so very much!
Adriel
 		 	   		  


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