[T3] Noise from the right side cylinder head.

[Alex Satala]

yet another update , finally the oil seems to get to the right side too , or so 
dad says.
The engine works like a charm , spinning wheels on the ground .
Its still under observation.
One more question about the engine: At what temperature is the engine block 
supposed 

to operate?
Thanks.




________________________________
From: Alex Satala <alexsatala at yahoo.com>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 4:43:37 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Noise from the right side cylinder head.

Dad says the original ones are titanium ( i guess not because its too expensive 
).
We will check the rods too , but i am afraid its a clogged channel in the engine 

block.
Also i spotted a problem on the camshaft , rust has eaten into the engine block 
a little , it does not affect the camshaft but there are some dents in the block 

, maybe losing pressure there? 

The oil light goes off immediately after the engine starts.





________________________________
From: Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 4:03:02 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Noise from the right side cylinder head.

On 23 Jun 2011 at 1:12, Alex Satala wrote:

> mine are simetric but the long ones are also a little thicker than the short 
> ones, to explain more acurate the short ones have the same diameter with the 
> steel tips , and the long ones have the alluminum (dad says theire titanium?) 
> pipes about 0.1mm thicker than the tips.

The OG pushrods have alum shafts which are larger in diameter than 
the ends, maybe by 2 mm.

> OK, now the BAD news , NO OIL in the right cilinder head AT ALL , i seem to 
>have 
>
> the problem you mentioned earlier about oil not going to the right side of the 


> engine (looking from the back of the car).
> The block had some mud in it some years ago , anyone know or can show me how to 
>
>
> find the right clogged oil channel that leads oil to the right side of the 
> block? 

Did you check the valve lash first? If the valve adjustments are very 
loose, the oil won't be forced up the pushrods even if everything 
else is okay.

Oil for the right side comes to the center cam bearing from the left 
side, the passes thru a groove around the OD of the center cam 
bearing, from there it goes into a bore in the right side of the 
case. That bore leads to the right, where it intersects another bore 
which runs front to back, connecting to each of the lifter bores.  
The oil is fed to the lifters, which feed it to the pushrods, which 
feed it to the rocker assemblies.

If you're not seeing any oil on the right, you're lucky that you 
spotted this right away. Start by taking the right side pushrods out 
and making sure they are hollow and that you can blow thru each one. 
Each end should have a small hole and the shafts themselves are 
hollow. If you're lucky, you'll find that they are just clogged up. I 
often take them somewhere that has a parts washer so I can pump fluid 
thru them, both directions, until it comes out clean.

I suppose Ti pushrods are possible. I'm not sure if that's a good 
idea. Thermal expansion of the pushrod is an important consideration 
in controlling valve lash, by changing materials you would need to 
adjust the valves differently. I tend to be very reluctant to move 
away from alum, and I'd really hate to see any engine built with half 
and half.

I could sell you 4 (or 8) good clean OG 1500/1600 pushrods if you 
can't find some locally.  

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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