[T3] Anybody located close to Delaware??

Bobsnotch at aol.com Bobsnotch at aol.com
Mon May 30 20:33:00 PDT 2011


 
In a message dated 5/30/2011 9:44:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
billymac53 at msn.com writes:


Hello All,

So I figure I could use some help trying to  rebuild my engine bay after 
the fire last month. Its summertime and my 62  notch is not running. I want to 
use this unfortunate oppurtunity to learn and  get some experience working 
on the car myself. I know I want to pull the  engine and see what exactly 
got burnt and to rewire the bay, but I know I  cannot do it by my self and all 
of my friends have no idea about the ACVW  scene and are pretty much scared 
to work on something so simple. I just don't  got the muscle to be pulling 
the engine and it would be nice to set a day or  two away with a local T3 
guy to look over my shoulder and lend an extra hand  when needed.

Just wondering...

BillyMac  


Since you have a 62, life is a lot easier. There's 4 nuts that need to be  
removed (they hold the engine to the trans and have a 17mm wrench size). 
There's  2 bolts that are holding the rear mount in place 13mm wrench size. And 
you have  what's left of the wiring harness, and the throttle cable left to 
remove. The  clamp on the throttle clamp uses an 8mm wrench, as does the 
wires on  the generator. You don't have to remove the heater cables like the 
later (65 and  on) cars do, but the heater pipes might have a clamp on them 
where they connect  to the heat exchangers. There's also 2 clamps on the 
bellows (cooling air boot).  These should be held in place with a phillips screw 
(1 from the top, and 1 from  the bottom on each clamp). These screws don't 
need to be removed  completely, but almost off is close enough. That's it. 
Use a big sturdy  floor jack to support the engine, have the car up on jack 
stands, as you'll need  some room to get the engine out of the bay (minimum 
18 inches plus the height of  the jack in the lowered position from the 
ground to the very bottom of the rear  apron). Some here use plywood to slide the 
engine out with, others just remove  it on the jack. I have a cart that 
fits over my jack, and supports it that way,  as it allows me to free up the 
jack, and roll the engine out of the way. Other  than the remains of the 
wiring (not sure how much is left), it should only take  an hour or so to remove 
the engine. I've done it in under a half hour by myself.  If I was closer, 
I'd help you out, but I'm north of Detroit, which is quite a  ways away from 
you. :O  

Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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