[T3] Intermittently running on two cylinders

[Jonathan Stiles]

That is SOP for patching old wire in my shop. If the wires are in good
shape, we dip the original wire connections in a solution of vinegar and
salt (as the chemical activator) followed by a dip in a mix of distilled
water and baking soda to get them shiny and new.

I would start with the basics. Check your cap on the dizzy and see if you
are losing spark due to corrosion on those cylinder leads. If not, then
start bypassing grounds with a good jumper wire on the harness.

Its going to be a process of elimination and patience.

Jon Stiles
Aircooled Outfitters

On Tue, Dec 4, 2012 at 3:57 PM, J. Jonik <j_jonik at yahoo.com> wrote:

> About changing an entire wiring harness, and about cracked and dried up
> wire insulation and bad connections etc....It seems that where those wires
> enter into their protective harness sleeve, they turn flexible, not cracked
> and hard.
>
> Over several years, I've done just about the whole engine (71 car w/ 73
> std FI engine) with new wire sections up to and into the harness sleeves,
> and new connectors, and it seems to have made a lot of difference.  Yes, I
> tried just really cleaning up the connections first...but that didn't
> change much, as important as that is to do regularly.
>
> I soldered the new wire sections (same gauge) to the old, and used
> shrink-wrap tubes to seal up the splices.  (Is there ANY electrical tape on
> earth that will work on hot oily VW engine wires?
>    When cutting the old wire parts off, take care to mark the wire for
> where it goes...like at the triple wire plug to distributor, the injectors,
> the five wire plug to Throttle Valve Switch, etc..
> Wires to Pressure Sensor seem ok because of not being on top of oily hot
> engine.
>
> Does this technique pass muster from those who Really Know what they are
> doing?
>
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