[T3] ball joints

[Dave Hall]

Often the new ball-joints come with the nut and spring washer.   If the
thread is corroded they may well be damaged on removal.  It pays to use
liquid wrench on for a day or two before attempting removal.  The washer is
likely to split as the nut is undone.

I think it's a 27mm socket needed and a long bar for leverage.

No ball-joint removal tool needed as the taper is very wide, but don't let
it rotate in the arm or you will round off the oval hole and be in trouble.
Most you need is a tap on the joint end - and if you're renewing, it won't
matter anyway.

I'd just say that if the boots are not damaged, it's very possible that the
joints are fine too.  Usually they wear because dirt has got in through a
split boot.

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Sheridan
Sent: 07 March 2012 18:54
To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] ball joints

Hi,
Has anyone changed their ball joints on their type 3 that wants to share the
following:

1) Did anyone damage their nuts removing the ball joints (the ball joint
nuts) because it appears
they need to reused on the new ball joints

2) Was a ball joint removal tool necessary or did people use a pickle
fork/5 lb sledge to knock them loose?

this is for a 1970 fastback.

thanks,

Chris
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