[T3] Tow Bar for 1969 Squareback Axle Beam

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 3/23/2012 7:51:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
gbforsmo at gmail.com writes:

1)   Weight of Axle Beam?  I've found one in Texas, but I need to get
it to  Wisconsin.  Either I ship the axle beam or I find a place
in/on/on top  of our motor home or towed car to carry it.
2)  IF a part number is  stamped into an Axle Beam, where is the number 
located?
3)  And what  would be the CORRECT part number for a 1969 Type 3
Squareback Axle Beam?  (or another year Axle Beam which is identical to
a '69)

Having an  actual Axle Beam is just for a metal fabricator to use to
build a safe,  reliable, properly fitted Tow Bar so I can tow my '69,
"four-wheels down",  behind our motor home.

In order to "shape" a home-made, steel,  welded-up, Tow Bar to PROPERLY
fit the Axle Beam, (as Bentley describes it  in Section 7; page 3)
"several heavy gauge stamped steel components ... two  main stampings
... Welded, stamped steel uprights..."  how much would  JUST a
bare-bones, axle beam WEIGH?

That means all bolted on  components of the Axle Beam (torsion bars,
torsion arms, bearings, shocks,  stabilizer bar, rubber stops, etc.)
are removed, leaving just the "shell"  of the stampings.

In order that a metal fabricator could build a  "custom Tow Bar" it
seems to me he would only need the Axle Beam "shell" to  fashion the
steel.

After the "U" bolt positions and the axle beam  connections are known,
constructing the remaining steel from the tow bar  (forward) to our
existing, aluminum Blue Ox Aladdin Tow Bar.  So-o-o  ... my question is 
about the weight of a "stripped down" front
axle  beam.  Does anybody who has "hefted" an axle beam, know an
approximate  weight of it with all components removed?
 
It's not that much, maybe 30 to 50 pounds, but it's more the bulk of it,  
as it takes up a space of about 3 ft by 18 inches, and all the weight is  
concentrated in that spot. Are you using a sample beam that still has good  
bushing and bearings?
 
Something to keep in mind (for both you and your fabricator), you might  
want to add a couple of tabs from the impact bar to help support the weight of 
 the tow bar. I realize that the impact bar is just a slip in piece (it 
resides  behind the bumper), but you'll be cantilevering the tow bar part off 
the beam  (to mount your "Blue OX" to). The tabs won't be for anything other 
than to help  keep it from dragging on the ground. If you do this between 
the body and the  bumper, the impact bar could be replaced at a later date 
with an "unmodified"  one. Just a thought.





Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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