[T3] window seals
elvisleft_bldg at comcast.net
elvisleft_bldg at comcast.net
Mon Jan 28 22:11:32 PST 2013
it seems like nobody has popout seals.. the price with CIP1 bob is very close to ISP west. However ISP west has cal look for 99.00 the whole set. I have heard discouraging words about seals today from my local shop , especially about the rear hatch seal being almost too loose and the windshield seal not fitting properly on a 73 tho...
thanks again.. Kelleigh
----- Original Message -----
From: "elvisleft bldg" <elvisleft_bldg at comcast.net>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 9:16:48 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] window seals
Bob
Thank you!
"Ideally, you want the entire headliner (door and window posts included) in
place before installing the windows. If you want, you could go with Cal
look window seals, as they are fairly cheap, and can be re-used up to about 2
years (after that it's hit and miss). I get them thru CIP, since they carry
WCM seals cheaper than WCM does. :O "
Good to know!!! I will be making my own panel covers and am using the zbar style doorpanels, it is a 67 but it does not have the correct door panels, on the one door..its the wrong color anyway..
Does the tab show in the bentley? I have not taken apart the doors yet and will be replacing doors that are more color matched I already have them, im gonna faux patina them to match more to the cars current color, light blue and It is dark so i cannot ck and see if the color tag is there
To the best of my knowledge it was and will be a 12 vlt car, I will be using my engine and transaxle from my wrecked 66 to install.. I just knew I have to fabricate the covering for the door panels that are in my wrecked 66 and for the posts etc.
I just know I cannot save the vinyl from my 66 and the headliner is junk in that car. I also know that it is ideal to have the headliner in but fundage is an issue.. there was a later tmi unpholstry kit on thesamba ugly tan..( IMHO No offense) someone was selling for 125.00 a steal!!
but i will be dealing with my 66 interior seats,
I intensely dislike the cal look but given the pricing youre discribing, i think i will deal with it for now. I just need a warm no pokey car and dry too.. did i mention that it too is a sunroof car??
This presents a new issue.. my wrecked car was hit in the front left fender by a guy who ran a red light. luckily i was smart (?) enough to have had paypal recpts for everything i bought for that car and it was almost done. I fought for two years to get most o f my money out of the car and i still brought it home. after many tears i came to the realization its roof is buckled and cannot be fixed without a frame machine. It had a brand new german windshie ld seal which cost me a pretty penny. I am going to save the pan even though it is damaged for donor metal to fix my 65S. My question is should I salvage all the metal and offer it to those less fortunate.
I mean the hood and left fenders front and rear.. yes he really smacked it... are wrecked... bumper is dust. I have many type threes in my family so doors and fenders and hatches are a given save. I plan on cutting the roof off at the posts and keeping the entire roof section due to the fact that it too was a working su nroof. I have seen a man on thesamba selling peices of drain sections from rear of car but is there anything else I should be saving??
thanks to everyone ..
This vw ride has been a long long journey, i have learned soo much.Thanks to everyone including the late Mr Wolf who taught me and continue to teach me. There are a lot of thieves and low life vw people who will steal from you in a min. even if you think they are cool I have now taken the stance
I just might kill you if you "f" with my cars.
Much love to type3.org
Kelleigh
----- Original Message -----
nd are cheaper than most
places. Be warned though, their (TMI's) catalog cut off dates are wrong, so
you'll need to know what you want before ordering.
You didn't mention what year the car is (or body style), and there's 4
years of "Z" style arm rests (64 thru 67), and 2 different styles of attaching
them. The 64/65 use 2 piece door panels, while the 66/67 use 1 piece door
panels. Also, the 64/65 "S" style uses a separate plastic trim piece across
the top of the door panel.
You can put 1 piece door panels in the earlier cars, but you'll need the
tab for the later style arm rests. Just a heads up on that.
The doors car be reassembled, other than the door panels by following the
Bentley, and you'll need to add a water/vapor barrier before installing the
interior panels. If you run into a snag, just e-mail us, and we'll get you
thru it. ;-)
The fenders can be re-installed without the rubber trim piece, and later
on (when you have more time to mess with it), and add the trim.
If you're doing a 12 volt swap, do it all, and by that, I mean wiper
motor, flasher relays, VR and generator, ALL of the lights (including all of
those in the fuel gauge cluster), etc. If you don't, something will get fried,
and you'll be chasing it. Most forget to do the wiper motor, and it's
really just a bolt on swap with one from a 67 to 70.
If you're turning it into a daily driver, you'll want to make sure all of
the mechanicals are good to go too. Nothing hurts worse than thinking you're
ready for the road, only to have a brake problem, or something like that.
I'm sure I've forgotten something, but that'll get you started. I hope
this helps.
Bob 65 Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71 Square-vert under construction
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