[T3] Leak under front driver side

[Jim Adney]

On 16 Mar 2013 at 8:55, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:

> I'm starting to think that the leak is brake fluid now, especially in view
> of the corrosiveness of brake fluid.  The areas of the front end that are
> "wet" are that bright orange/fresh rust color.  I do not have enough of a
> leak on the floor right now (haven't driven it in about a week) to perform
> the oil/water test under the sink to see if it is water soluble.

Can you just wet your finger on the rubber part and see if the wet 
part rinses off without soap?

> So if I want to verify my brakes are up to speed, aside from flushing out
> the old fluid, what next?  Should I remove the cylinders and have them
> rebuilt?

There are a couple simple tests you can do.

Have a friend push hard on the pedal while you see if you can feel 
the pad move in the back of each caliper. You can do this while lying 
on the floor and reaching in from the back side of the wheel. Lay 
your finger on the caliper and the rear of the pad. You are hoping to 
feel the pad move in when the pedal is pressed and move back slightly 
when the pedal is released. Check all 4 pads.

If you find one or more pads that don't pull back, send me the 
calipers to be rebuilt.

If that works, take it for a 15 minute highway drive, then stop at 
the top of a hill, letting the car slow down without using the brakes 
any more than absolutely necessary. Get out and feel each rotor and 
drum. Be careful, because something may be VERY hot. If there's 
anything that's hot enough that you don't want to leave your finger 
there, then there's a problem. In that case, let us know which wheels 
are hot and we can go from there.

In general, I think calipers should be rebuilt in pairs, just so both 
get off to the same fresh start. Rear wheel cylinders are best left 
on the car and rebuilt there. I can also rebuild your master cyl if 
there's a problem with it.

Once you get everything in good shape, I recommend changing to DoT-5 
Silicone Brake Fluid. That will keep everything in good shape MUCH 
longer than standard DoT 3 or 4.

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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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