[T3] Leak under front driver side

[Jacob Adam Schroeder]

The fluid washes off with water only, no soap.  So it looks like we're
dealing with brake fluid ... bummer.

This likely means that fluid is leaking out of the master cylinder.  What
is next?

As far as the brake check, I will perform the first test you suggested,
Jim, and see if I can detect movement in each of the 4 pads.  I may wait on
the other test (15 minute drive, etc.) until after I fix the leaking master
cylinder.  I know that when I drove the car, I did not notice any pulling
and after driving home from work (~ 30 minutes) when I did so a few weeks
back, I checked and did not notice any excessive heat coming from the
rotors or drums.

Jacob

On Sat, Mar 16, 2013 at 9:54 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 16 Mar 2013 at 8:55, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
>
> > I'm starting to think that the leak is brake fluid now, especially in
> view
> > of the corrosiveness of brake fluid.  The areas of the front end that are
> > "wet" are that bright orange/fresh rust color.  I do not have enough of a
> > leak on the floor right now (haven't driven it in about a week) to
> perform
> > the oil/water test under the sink to see if it is water soluble.
>
> Can you just wet your finger on the rubber part and see if the wet
> part rinses off without soap?
>
> > So if I want to verify my brakes are up to speed, aside from flushing out
> > the old fluid, what next?  Should I remove the cylinders and have them
> > rebuilt?
>
> There are a couple simple tests you can do.
>
> Have a friend push hard on the pedal while you see if you can feel
> the pad move in the back of each caliper. You can do this while lying
> on the floor and reaching in from the back side of the wheel. Lay
> your finger on the caliper and the rear of the pad. You are hoping to
> feel the pad move in when the pedal is pressed and move back slightly
> when the pedal is released. Check all 4 pads.
>
> If you find one or more pads that don't pull back, send me the
> calipers to be rebuilt.
>
> If that works, take it for a 15 minute highway drive, then stop at
> the top of a hill, letting the car slow down without using the brakes
> any more than absolutely necessary. Get out and feel each rotor and
> drum. Be careful, because something may be VERY hot. If there's
> anything that's hot enough that you don't want to leave your finger
> there, then there's a problem. In that case, let us know which wheels
> are hot and we can go from there.
>
> In general, I think calipers should be rebuilt in pairs, just so both
> get off to the same fresh start. Rear wheel cylinders are best left
> on the car and rebuilt there. I can also rebuild your master cyl if
> there's a problem with it.
>
> Once you get everything in good shape, I recommend changing to DoT-5
> Silicone Brake Fluid. That will keep everything in good shape MUCH
> longer than standard DoT 3 or 4.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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