[T3] Brakes (was Leak under front driver side)

[Jim Adney]

On 17 Mar 2013 at 15:21, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:

> The front driver side caliper had 2 bleeders -- an upper and a lower. 
> The lower was lacking the rubber plug on the end.  I tried to turn it,
> but it was covered in rust.  I shot it with some penetrating oil and
> let it sit.  About 10 minutes later, I tried again.  As it started to
> turn, it all of a sudden broke loose -- breaking off the valve into the
> caliper housing. 

I can rebuild the caliper and I can probably replace the broken bleed 
valve. That increases the cost considerably, however, from $45 to 
~$70 per caliper. It's MUCH cheaper to send them to me BEFORE you 
break them, as I can usually have better ways of getting them loose 
than you do. I also know when to quit.  ;-)  I've just done this a 
LOT.

> On the passenger side, that caliper only had 1 bleeder.  It also lacked a
> rubber plug, but I was able to turn it without breaking it.  I understand
> that my car should have both an upper and a lower bleeder. 

Type 3 calipers changed in mid-71. Early OG calipers have 1 bleed 
valve, late ones have 2. Brazilian replacements for early calipers 
have 2, so I can't tell what you should have without a VIN. 

Early and late don't interchange, they are completely different sizes 
and have different mounting bolts and bolt spacing, but one of my 
cars came with a replaced steering knuckle on one side and a matching 
caliper (that didn't match the one on the other side.) I had to 
replace both the knuckle and caliper to make that right.

You might also want to look closely to make sure that the lower bleed 
valve on the driver's side wasn't already broken off. It might not be 
obvious.

> (1) Where's the best place to get a replacement caliper for my driver's
> side?

There are NO currently available sources for correct Type 3 calipers 
that I know of. The early ones sold today are actually beetle 
calipers with reduced piston size which gives ~10% reduced braking. I 
don't know ANY source for ANY kind of replacement late calipers.

I recommend that you let me rebuild your old ones for you.

> (2) Should I replace the passenger side caliper as well since it does not
> appear to be the correct part (only 1 bleeder)?

You should send me both, so I can rebuild both of them. When I see 
them I can tell you whether they are right or not. If they are wrong, 
I have good rebuilt replacements I can sell you.

> (3) Are the front rubber hoses readily available that I should just go
> ahead and replace these while I'm under there?

I have all the soft brake hoses for your car if you need them. A full 
set of 4 costs $60, but you seldom need all 4. The fronts fail most 
commonly, but they are all getting old by now.

> (4) Anything else I should be concerned about?

It should not be necessary to remove the master cylinder to check if 
it's leaking. Reach in behind the gas pedal and find the rubber boot 
over the front of the MC. Follow it forward to where it fits over the 
MC casting. Feel the underside of the boot at that forward (front is 
front) end. If the MC is leaking, there will be a drip or wetness 
there. If not, leave it alone. 

If it's leaking, mail it to me with the calipers.

PM me if you want to go ahead with this.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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