[T3] Chris's Mentor

Bobsnotch at aol.com Bobsnotch at aol.com
Thu May 9 05:27:57 PDT 2013


In a message dated 5/9/2013 12:10:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jadney at vwtype3.org writes:
 
I get the impression that you and Ken are working under a couple of  
assumptions:

1) That the marking on the pulley is only approximate  and that this 
is a way to get a better TDC.

2) That the position of  the dist drive gear has some effect on when 
TDC occurs.

> An  important final step when you are at that point, when you have used  
the
> method I described to find TDC for no.1 and see that notch on the  pulley 
is
> 24 degrees off, is to reach down through the inspection hole  and put a 
spot
> of White paint or White out at 12 O'clock on the  Pulley. That paint spot
> then becomes your new 'notch' for timing  purposes.  From now on you're
> timing to the Paint Spot rather  than the Notch.

This is absolutely wrong. I don't mean to be mean about  it, but I 
can't emphasize this enough. Don't do this.
 
I have to agree with Jim on this. It actually sounds like you're going to  
end up being 24 degrees advanced by the time you're done, add in the 20+  
degrees the distributor will give, and you could be close to 50 degrees in  
total timing (way too much for our fuels today). The engine will run with that 
 much advance though, but it'll also try to self destruct too.
 
I've always brought the pulley up to TDC, then checked both #1 valves,  
along with #2 intake valve (to verify I'm on #1 cylinder), as it seems that  
valve will have some slack in it, when you're on #1 cylinder. Then I set  
everything else. Like Jim mentioned, IF you had long enough wires, you could  
literally set the distributor drive gear anywhere you wanted it, and go from  
there. 
BUT, keep in mind that the type 3 FI distributor has a retard for #3  
cylinder built in, along with the trigger points. And the trigger points  require 
#1 to be in the right spot, for both electrical timing (spark) and  fuel 
timing (opening the pairs of injectors). If these are off, then you won't  get 
the engine to run correctly. 
Years ago, Russ told us of a short cut method of doing a valve  adjustment, 
but I can't find the write up at the moment. But I think it was  basically 
doing 3 valves on 1 side (both #1 valves, and #2 intake), and 1  valve on 
the other side (#4 exhaust), spin the engine 180, then repeat  the 3 valves on 
1 side (both #3 valves, #4 intake, and 1 on the other  side (#2 exhaust), 
and put the covers back on. I'll try and find it (I  might be wrong on which 
other valve needs to be done), as it might help in  verifying that you'll be 
off with the method you're trying to use to get #1 in  the correct spot.
 
Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction

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