[T3] Chris's Mentor

[Dave Hall]

I wonder if this idea of 'pretending' TDC is at 24 degrees of advance may be
a consequence of the 009 distributor, and the practice of timing the spark
at an rpm that gives close to max advance.  

This is just an attempt to rationalise what is clearly a basic
misunderstanding.  Maybe he's not timing it at idle - which would be done at
TDC on a '71 car (carb or FI). 

I was wondering if crankshaft degrees and distributor degrees were being
confused, but I think that would be even worse.

Yes, Russ' method involved having both rocker covers off at the same time -
which I avoid if only because if you jack up one side at a time to do that
side, you don't get the oil dribbling out of the rocker area!


Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Sent: 09 May 2013 13:28
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Chris's Mentor

In a message dated 5/9/2013 12:10:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jadney at vwtype3.org writes:
 
I get the impression that you and Ken are working under a couple of
assumptions:

1) That the marking on the pulley is only approximate  and that this is a
way to get a better TDC.

2) That the position of  the dist drive gear has some effect on when TDC
occurs.

> An  important final step when you are at that point, when you have 
> used
the
> method I described to find TDC for no.1 and see that notch on the  
> pulley
is
> 24 degrees off, is to reach down through the inspection hole  and put 
> a
spot
> of White paint or White out at 12 O'clock on the  Pulley. That paint 
> spot then becomes your new 'notch' for timing  purposes.  From now on 
> you're timing to the Paint Spot rather  than the Notch.

This is absolutely wrong. I don't mean to be mean about  it, but I can't
emphasize this enough. Don't do this.
 
I have to agree with Jim on this. It actually sounds like you're going to
end up being 24 degrees advanced by the time you're done, add in the 20+
degrees the distributor will give, and you could be close to 50 degrees in
total timing (way too much for our fuels today). The engine will run with
that  much advance though, but it'll also try to self destruct too.
 
I've always brought the pulley up to TDC, then checked both #1 valves, along
with #2 intake valve (to verify I'm on #1 cylinder), as it seems that valve
will have some slack in it, when you're on #1 cylinder. Then I set
everything else. Like Jim mentioned, IF you had long enough wires, you could
literally set the distributor drive gear anywhere you wanted it, and go from
there. 
BUT, keep in mind that the type 3 FI distributor has a retard for #3
cylinder built in, along with the trigger points. And the trigger points
require
#1 to be in the right spot, for both electrical timing (spark) and  fuel
timing (opening the pairs of injectors). If these are off, then you won't
get the engine to run correctly. 
Years ago, Russ told us of a short cut method of doing a valve  adjustment,
but I can't find the write up at the moment. But I think it was  basically
doing 3 valves on 1 side (both #1 valves, and #2 intake), and 1  valve on
the other side (#4 exhaust), spin the engine 180, then repeat  the 3 valves
on
1 side (both #3 valves, #4 intake, and 1 on the other  side (#2 exhaust),
and put the covers back on. I'll try and find it (I  might be wrong on which
other valve needs to be done), as it might help in  verifying that you'll be
off with the method you're trying to use to get #1 in  the correct spot.
 
Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction

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