[T3] EFI conversion

[B Fye]

Run a T off the bottom of you tank with the return behind the pump and you will be fine.  That is how my cb set up works

Brian Fye

> On Oct 13, 2013, at 10:32 AM, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 10/13/2013 10:42:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> sawspatch at hotmail.com writes:
> 
> Bob, 
> Thanks for joining the party. All great info so far by  everybody, THANKS !!
> 
> I was really hoping that someone who had done what  I'm attempting would 
> chime in and it sounds like i have a very similar goal. A  few questions for 
> ya. 
> #1 your thoughts on the option of doing a weld on  fuel sump Vrs. The sump 
> tank. How big is said sump tank and where would I  locate this tank if I 
> choose that path.
> #2 the Ford fuel pump is a good  idea but my FI Kit has a fuel pump 
> included.  the stock fuel pump  bracket, Is this welded to the beam or is it a bolt 
> on item? Is this factory  bracket available to purchase , nos or used? 
> #3 Was it to difficult to run  the fuel lines through the tunnel or Just 
> not worth the effort? I have to say,  having the fuel lines so exposed would 
> make me very nervous.
> #4 ALSO, with  my bigger motor I'm adding a oil filter and a oil cooler 
> with fan. I was  hoping the cooler would fit above the transmission attached to 
> the underside  of the body. Any ideas or good solutions for this approach 
> ?? Would you  install the cooler somewhere else, if so, why?
> 
> Thanks again for sharing  all of the info and advice for the type3 world. 
> It's all really incredible the  depth and experience that goes into all the 
> subjects covered in this group.  Amazing!!!
> 
> #1a) You can go either route. The sump welded to the bottom of the tank  
> would be a clean way to go about it, but it requires a lot of work to make  
> sure you don't have any leaks. Also, welding on our fuel tanks can cause rust  
> on the inside, and you really can't seal them very well. By that I mean, 
> that  most of the "sealing kits" only last for a short time, then separate 
> from the  steel. Also, you have to be very careful applying it, as you can 
> easily plug  the drain holes (that keep the cup full of fuel). A surge tank only 
> needs to  be about a pint to a quart in capacity (it keeps fuel in place 
> while doing  some hard turns). This can be made out of almost any type of 
> metal, or even  plastic, since it's on the supply side of the pump.
> 
> #2a) The stock pump bracket is a bolt together set up, that actually  grabs 
> the spot welded seam lips of the front beam (captures it). I'd look in  the 
> Samba Classifieds, or ask IF someone on the list has one (Keith, Jim, or  
> Mike, might be good choices to ask). You'll need the clamp bracket, along 
> with  the pump mount itself (looks a lot like a coil bracket). Depending on the 
> diameter of your pump, you might need to add some sort of spacer to help  
> hold/fill in the gap of the pump mount. But, depending on the pump design, 
> you  might want to mount the pump at the front of the tunnel opening, at the 
> shift  rod access plate.
> 
> #3a) I didn't run my lines inside the tunnel. I ran them under the car,  as 
> it was easier for me to go that route. You can replace the lines inside the 
> tunnel, but it's a lot of work to do. If you have the big Blue Bentley, 
> they  actually cover replacing the fuel line, but, they show doing so with the 
> body  off the pan, AND replacing just the single fuel line with another 
> line of the  same size (not adding a 2nd one, or going to a larger size). And 
> IF you were  to go that route, you'd want to cut some access holes in the 
> side of the  tunnel, so you'd have access to being able to anchor it in place. 
> By running the lines on the outside, under the car (just like most new  
> cars have), you can easily replace a line, fix a leak, or even go to a larger  
> diameter tube without a lot of extra work required. Plus, the sump  
> behind/under the front seats is lower than the bottom of the tunnel, so  they're 
> protected from bottoming out on speed bumps and the like. Up front,  you'd hit 
> the master cylinder skid plate first, but the front beam actually  sits 
> lower than it. On 68 and later cars, there are 2 support beams welded to  the 
> floor and frame head, that protect the lines even more. By studying the  
> bottom of the pan, I determined that I could run the lines there without any  
> problems. BUT, watch where you put the screws on the left side (it's better to  
> be in more off the edge of the tunnel, than outside of the edge), due to 
> the  main center brake line (for the rear brakes) running down that side,  
> inside the car. :O
> 
> #4a) You can put the cooler there, and use a thermostatic switch to turn  
> the cooling fan on or off. That location is a good spot, but you'll need to  
> use rubber insulators to keep any excess vibration and noise to a minimum.  
> There's not a lot of sound deadener in that location, so harmonics from the  
> fan can get loud. ;-)
> 
> Yes, we're a very diverse group here, and most of us have either done  
> something before, or are doing something like you're asking about. Check the  
> Samba type 3 forum too, as a good portion of us are there as well. ;-)  
> I hope this helps.
> 
> Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
> 64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
> 71  Square-vert under  construction
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20131013/b6fa16d4/attachment.htm>
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.