[T3] EFI conversion

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 10/13/2013 10:42:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sawspatch at hotmail.com writes:
 
Bob, 
Thanks for joining the party. All great info so far by  everybody, THANKS !!

I was really hoping that someone who had done what  I'm attempting would 
chime in and it sounds like i have a very similar goal. A  few questions for 
ya. 
#1 your thoughts on the option of doing a weld on  fuel sump Vrs. The sump 
tank. How big is said sump tank and where would I  locate this tank if I 
choose that path.
#2 the Ford fuel pump is a good  idea but my FI Kit has a fuel pump 
included.  the stock fuel pump  bracket, Is this welded to the beam or is it a bolt 
on item? Is this factory  bracket available to purchase , nos or used? 
#3 Was it to difficult to run  the fuel lines through the tunnel or Just 
not worth the effort? I have to say,  having the fuel lines so exposed would 
make me very nervous.
#4 ALSO, with  my bigger motor I'm adding a oil filter and a oil cooler 
with fan. I was  hoping the cooler would fit above the transmission attached to 
the underside  of the body. Any ideas or good solutions for this approach 
?? Would you  install the cooler somewhere else, if so, why?

Thanks again for sharing  all of the info and advice for the type3 world. 
It's all really incredible the  depth and experience that goes into all the 
subjects covered in this group.  Amazing!!!
 
#1a) You can go either route. The sump welded to the bottom of the tank  
would be a clean way to go about it, but it requires a lot of work to make  
sure you don't have any leaks. Also, welding on our fuel tanks can cause rust  
on the inside, and you really can't seal them very well. By that I mean, 
that  most of the "sealing kits" only last for a short time, then separate 
from the  steel. Also, you have to be very careful applying it, as you can 
easily plug  the drain holes (that keep the cup full of fuel). A surge tank only 
needs to  be about a pint to a quart in capacity (it keeps fuel in place 
while doing  some hard turns). This can be made out of almost any type of 
metal, or even  plastic, since it's on the supply side of the pump.
 
#2a) The stock pump bracket is a bolt together set up, that actually  grabs 
the spot welded seam lips of the front beam (captures it). I'd look in  the 
Samba Classifieds, or ask IF someone on the list has one (Keith, Jim, or  
Mike, might be good choices to ask). You'll need the clamp bracket, along 
with  the pump mount itself (looks a lot like a coil bracket). Depending on the 
 diameter of your pump, you might need to add some sort of spacer to help  
hold/fill in the gap of the pump mount. But, depending on the pump design, 
you  might want to mount the pump at the front of the tunnel opening, at the 
shift  rod access plate.
 
#3a) I didn't run my lines inside the tunnel. I ran them under the car,  as 
it was easier for me to go that route. You can replace the lines inside the 
 tunnel, but it's a lot of work to do. If you have the big Blue Bentley, 
they  actually cover replacing the fuel line, but, they show doing so with the 
body  off the pan, AND replacing just the single fuel line with another 
line of the  same size (not adding a 2nd one, or going to a larger size). And 
IF you were  to go that route, you'd want to cut some access holes in the 
side of the  tunnel, so you'd have access to being able to anchor it in place. 
By running the lines on the outside, under the car (just like most new  
cars have), you can easily replace a line, fix a leak, or even go to a larger  
diameter tube without a lot of extra work required. Plus, the sump  
behind/under the front seats is lower than the bottom of the tunnel, so  they're 
protected from bottoming out on speed bumps and the like. Up front,  you'd hit 
the master cylinder skid plate first, but the front beam actually  sits 
lower than it. On 68 and later cars, there are 2 support beams welded to  the 
floor and frame head, that protect the lines even more. By studying the  
bottom of the pan, I determined that I could run the lines there without any  
problems. BUT, watch where you put the screws on the left side (it's better to  
be in more off the edge of the tunnel, than outside of the edge), due to 
the  main center brake line (for the rear brakes) running down that side,  
inside the car. :O
 
#4a) You can put the cooler there, and use a thermostatic switch to turn  
the cooling fan on or off. That location is a good spot, but you'll need to  
use rubber insulators to keep any excess vibration and noise to a minimum.  
There's not a lot of sound deadener in that location, so harmonics from the  
fan can get loud. ;-)
 
Yes, we're a very diverse group here, and most of us have either done  
something before, or are doing something like you're asking about. Check the  
Samba type 3 forum too, as a good portion of us are there as well. ;-)  
I hope this helps.
 
Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction


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