[T3] Engine teardown

[Jim Adney]

On 8 Feb 2014 at 21:15, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:

> I pulled my engine this past weekend and began the tear down process.
> Recall I was having an issue where the clearances on my exhaust valves
> began shrinking incredibly fast (from .006 to zero in < 1000 miles, on two
> separate occasions).
> 
> Some pictures are here, if anybody is interested:
> https://plus.google.com/photos/110222907858291551656/albums/5855322357304526225
> 
> I have already removed the heads.  I noticed that the exhaust valve "face"
> was white, whereas the intakes were blackish.  Also, once the rockers were
> removed, I could see some noticeable variation between a few of the valve
> stems.  Any other observations from my pictures?

Exhaust valves run much hotter than intakes, so it's normal for them 
to burn off the ash to a whiter color. Note, however, that one of 
your exhaust valves (2 or 4) is not as white as the others. One of 
your spark plugs is also darker than the others. Did they go 
together?

> I have been looking for an excuse to rebuild my engine, so I'm going with a
> complete rebuild--I'm glad I did too, the pulley bolt was practically loose
> when I put the 30mm socket on it to remove it (and no shim . . . should
> there have been one?).  This will be fun and I'll have lots of questions.
> I'm older, (hopefully) wiser, and more patient now than when I rebuilt it >
> 15 years ago.  I want to stick with a 1600 and the stock set up (except for
> a counter-weighted crank).

You decide on a shim or not, depending on what you need to make sure 
the generator belt clears the pulley housing. New engines seemed to 
always have them, but I often leave them out.

> First: I have 3 crank case breathers.  In selecting which one to use for my
> fresh engine, how can I tell which one is "best"?  Does anything ever go
> wrong with these?

They fill up with crud. You'll be amazed how much comes out if you 
have access to a parts washer and some stiff wire you can bend to 
clean around in there. There are different styles of breathers, so 
make SURE you understand the differences before you pick the one you 
want to use with your engine. (If this is for a carb rebuild, do NOT 
try to use the latest version with 2 plastic caps on top.)

> Second: For a complete engine rebuild, which parts are worth re-using?

Per Keith, reuse anything that is still in good condition. Consider 
refurbishing anything that's only close to good.

> Third: Thoughts on whether I should send in one of my 1972 T-3 cases or
> whether I should use a newer universal case (the one I just pulled)?

Check yours out. Reuse it if possible. I send mine to RIMCO to get 
case savers added, align bored to +.020, and drilled/tapped for full 
flow filtering. Ask them to provide the bearings you will need to 
match your crank. RIMCO can also rebuild the rods and provide the cam 
bearings.

If your stock crank journals are still good, send the crank to Berg. 
They can weld on counterweights and straighten the crank without 
regrinding it. That leaves the crank full strength, with the case 
hardened journal surface still fully hard. That's a bonus. I also 
send all the rotating parts, plus the rods, to Berg for balancing.

I balance the pistons myself, with a simple scale. My wife's Weight 
Watcher's scale and a lathe do a perfect job, and that saves me the 
worry of shipping the relatively fragile pistons.

Add full flow filtering. Add steel shims under the valve springs to 
prevent alum wear particles in the oil. Get Berg's instructions and 
port the heads.

What do you see when you look at both ends of the valve that was 
unadjusting? Which one is it in your photos? I'm very interested in 
what you find when you examine the exhaust valve that was "moving."

The intake port spacers you need will depend on what you're building, 
FI or carbs. I have whatever you need here. I also have the pulley 
shims, if necessary.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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