[T3] Rear torsion replacement

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/20/2014 12:59:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rabioklein at aol.com writes:
 
Ok well I'm going to replace them, so I was actually looking for  any 
advice In making this an easier situation. ;) but I will make sure I  already 
know my angle on my suspension to bein with so I can atleast have the  height I 
have at the moment ;) lower would be preferable but I'm willing to do  the 
work to get what is want out of the car I'm going to drive. Anyhoo any  
advice in the removal - installation would be great or I guess I old just go  to 
YouTube.


 
About  the only advice I can give, is to get the rear of the  car up about 
1.5 feet off the ground. I say that, as you'll need that distance  to get 
the rear trailing arm down enough to clear the double spring plate. I  also 
remove the clips that hold the rubber brake line in place, to allow the  
trailing arm to move. You'll have to remove the outer CV joint bolts (put a  bag 
over the CV joint to keep dirt out of the joint, and grease off you), as  
they need to come off, so you can drop the trailing arm.
 
Other than that, it's big pry bars and an angle finder to get the  angles 
on both sides the same. I only say that, as getting the spring plates  to 
move off the torsion bar (while loaded) is a tough part of the job. It'll  
fight you all the way too, until IT gets to a point where it'll just want  to 
fall off. BTDT before. Just getting it off the lower stop isn't  enough, as 
it'll still be attached to the torsion bar. It has to "pop  off". Once it's 
"unloaded", you can take a reading with the angle finder.  If you're staying 
the same height, then that's the angle you want to finish  with before 
"re-loading" the arm. If you're lowering, you'll want to "re-set  the spring plate 
up a notch (or 2) and take a reading.
 
For reassembly, I use 3 M10 bolts (treaded the entire length, that  are 
about 3 to 4 inches long) with some spacers, to help press the  torsion bar 
cover back in place (the hard part of the entire job). Use talc  powder on the 
rubber, as it doesn't eat the rubber like petroleum products do.  Once the 
cover is back on fully, I swap the bolts back to the originals 1 at a  time.
 
By the way, there used to be some lowering videos on You Tube, but Cugir  
(who made them) removed them. It's a real shame, as they were pretty  
detailed on doing the job.
 
As for rear shocks, I like either KYB whites, or KYB gas charged. I  prefer 
to keep oil shocks on the front, as our cars aren't heavy at that end,  and 
really don't need a heavy duty shock, or a gas charged shock (it kills the  
ride).
I hope this helps.

Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction


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