[T3] Heads are toast, rebuild time

[Chad]

You should definitely be up in the high 20s mpg with a stock fi properly
tuned. It definitely sounds like your running rich. Does it idle well or
does it hunt at idle?
On Jan 29, 2014 8:12 PM, "Jacob Adam Schroeder" <jacob.schroeder at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Chad.
>
> I wish there was an easy solution.  I'm OK putting a torque wrench on those
> nuts again, but the thing that concerns me is that if a nut or two were
> loose, I think I would see excess clearance on one or two valves, as
> opposed to tightening up on only the exhaust valves (my intake valves have
> been constant on .006).
>
> Jacob
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Chad <brakeman22 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Jacob, it doesn't get too hot on top of the cooler. I've seen many people
> > run that weatherstrip. It's actually just forcing cool air to go through
> > the tin as opposed to over the cooler.
> >
> > If you have another case / motor you're going to use as your rebuild I
> > would just keep running it and adjusting the valves. Not to assume
> anything
> > but you are sure you tightened all the adjusting nuts? Start with the
> easy
> > stuff first. Make sure the nuts of the rocker arm studs are torqued
> > correctly to the head.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> >
> > On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <
> > jacob.schroeder at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 6:52 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > It's hard to imagine what would cause all 4 exhaust valves to wear
> > > > like this, but it's clearly something you need to get to the bottom
> > > > of. Is your car FI or carbs? What year?
> > >
> > >
> > > I am running the stock FI set up and it is a 1972.  I really do want to
> > get
> > > to the bottom of this and have been hesitant to keep driving it.  It
> > sounds
> > > great when running, but I don't like to see those clearances tightening
> > > up.  Although, if I rebuild, I will not be reusing any of the engine
> > > internals from my current engine, so maybe I should just keep running
> it
> > > and see what happens.  Worst case is I'll be out the money to tow it
> home
> > > after it swallows a valve.
> > >
> > > I don't plan on reusing any of the components because the case is
> > > universal, as are the heads, and when I rebuild I'm thinking I'd rather
> > > have my OG case/heads rebuilt.
> > >
> > > Either way, I'd want to get a
> > > > really good idea of what kind of gas mileage you're getting. That
> > > > might have a lot to do with it. If, for example, it's running really
> > > > rich, you could be getting carbon buildup on the valves, which would
> > > > make the clearance go away. The solution for that would probably not
> > > > require removing the engine.
> > > >
> > >
> > > I have my mileage log in my car (I left that one at home today), but I
> > > believe by mileage has been hovering around 20 mpg and that is mostly
> > > highway type driving.  Usually it is in the range of 18-20 mpg.  What
> is
> > > "normal" for our cars?  The day-to-day driving I have been doing on
> this
> > > engine is more highway driving than the engine has ever seen.  Before
> > this
> > > year (when I started driving it daily), it was mainly used by me in
> > college
> > > (~ 10 years ago) to run to the grocery/liquor store twice a week.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > The lack of the foam seal on top of the oil cooler MIGHT (very small
> > > > might) have some effect on both left side cylinders, but shouldn't
> > > > have any effect on the right.
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim, that is a good point.  After searching many many forum posts here
> > and
> > > on the Samba, it seems like most people notice tightening on one
> exhaust
> > > valve (such as #3) rather than all of them in unison at the same pace.
> > > That is what is concerning me.
> > >
> > > I have very nice foam pad replacements
> > > > if you get to that. I'd want to check the thermostat linkage and the
> > > > cooling ductwork; make sure everything is there, working, adjusted,
> > > > and tight.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Thanks Jim, I will consider that if I get to that point.  I do not have
> > the
> > > thermostat linkage in place (the flaps are removed), but all the tin is
> > in
> > > place.  I had originally planned on pulling the engine to replace the
> > > thermostat, linkage, and flaps (I have a complete set now), but if I'm
> > > going to tear it down that far I might as well . . . you get the idea.
> > >
> > > Jacob
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