[T3] Automatic Shifting

Craigs List craigslistcsprings at gmail.com
Fri May 2 09:08:40 PDT 2014


I forgot to mention that I am running aftermarket carbs. I have a set of
DRLA's on there now. Before it was a set of 34 ICTs. Although the vacuum
signal did change, and it made a difference, I still have the same shift
issue that I have always had whether it has been the ICTs or the DRLAs. I
still think I need to rebuild the valve body.

Adam


On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Craigs List
<craigslistcsprings at gmail.com>wrote:

> Jim,
>
> I am going to take this one step at a time.
>
> As far a "late" vs "early VM, I have a late one. I actually have 3 of
> them. I also have an early one with the yellow stripe. I know that they are
> late VM's because they were sent with the type 4 automatic that I got when
> I was swapping out the automatic because of killing the differential case.
>
> There was a noticeable improvement with shifting when I went from the
> "yellow" VM to the "brown" one, but it still didn't like to shift at the
> correct point.
>
> As far as adjusting the VM's, this also didn't help with the shift points.
>
> Now on to the valve body and governor. I have kept them consistent
> throughout all o f the swaps. I did kill the governor that was originally
> with this particular valve body, but I dissembled the broken governor and
> moved the weights to the usable governor. This, to me, means that I still
> have the correct governor with the correct valve body.
>
> All of the VM's I have used have been checked for ATF leaks through the
> adjustment screw. One was bad and thrown away. The other 3 I have are good.
>
> This is all starting to point to a valve body rebuild in my eyes. I have
> had the same problem throughout with a multitude of VMs and 2 different
> automatics. I think I will look into a valve body rebuild as my next course
> of action. What do your rebuild kits cost?
>
> Adam
>
>
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:00 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
>> On 2 May 2014 at 7:33, Craigs List wrote:
>>
>> > I have a question for those with automatic transmissions. Do all of us
>> have
>> > to shift with fluctuation of the gas pedal? My automatic likes to shift
>> > into second far to early and never wants to shift into 3rd. I have to
>> let
>> > of the gas completely to coax it into shifting.
>>
>> It seems odd that one shift happens early and the other happens late,
>> but the fact that blipping the throttle helps the 2-3 shift tells us
>> that this is related to the vacuum modulator in some way. No, this is
>> not normal.
>>
>> First, what year is your Type 3? The '72-3 ATs were different from
>> the earlier ones, and they take a different VM. So the place to start
>> is to make SURE you have the right VM and that it is adjusted
>> correctly. The AT chapter of the Bentley manual covers the adjustment
>> of the VM. The pressure they give there is correct for the early
>> years; if you have a late AT, I'll have to dig for the number.
>>
>> You don't need the fancy pressure setup from the AT shop, but you
>> will need a 50 psi pressure gauge that will screw into the 10 mm port
>> on the side of the AT. I find that a 1/8" NPT gauge will screw in
>> there nicely.
>>
>> Genuine VW VMs will have the part number stamped on the face of the
>> VM. Early FI VMs end in A with a yellow paint stripe, while the late
>> ones end in C and have a brown paint stripe. Genuine VMs adjust with
>> an Allen wrench. If yours takes a small screwdriver, it's a generic
>> aftermarket replacement and it will probably help if you install a
>> correct one in there, especially if this is a late AT.
>>
>> If your car has been  converted to aftermarket carbs, this may be
>> part of the problem, as the vacuum signal will be different from that
>> which the VM was designed for.
>>
>> You should also pull the vacuum hose off the VM and see how much, and
>> what color, oil drains out of there. A small amount of dirty black
>> oil is normal and is just condensation from the intake manifold. If
>> you get a lot of red oil, that's ATF and that means the VM is leaking
>> and should be replaced (and adjusted.) Check the condition of the
>> hose to make sure it is sealing well at both ends. Hose clamps should
>> not be necessary, but the hose should be snug on its connection at
>> each end.
>>
>> Finally, the VM sticks down slightly below the AT pan, so it's
>> possible that it's been hit and bent. If it's bent, you could try to
>> straighten it, but you may have to replace it. A bent VM can be
>> sticky, and this might also explain your problem.
>>
>> If you have to replace your VM, keep in mind that ATF will pour out
>> of that hole when you remove the old one. Have the new one ready and
>> don't forget the alum sealing washer.
>>
>> Depending on what year you have, I may have a new VM if you need one.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>>
>
>
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