[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

[Sean Bartnik]

-Sean

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:55 PM, J. Jonik <j_jonik at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> - No leaks anywhere.
> - Reservoir filled to proper level. Cap loosened, and hand-brake off, when bleeding.
> - Top valve in a front double-valve caliper is frozen in place.

This is a problem you must address before proceeding. Air rises in the brake fluid so you bleed the brakes out of the top bleeder valve. If you cannot open the top bleeder valve than you cannot say that the brakes have been fully/properly bled. 

> 
> Long shot:  What about re-adjusting...lengthening...the push-rod from pedal to cylinder?  How bad must car rust be to make that go out of adjustment?

Car rust has not a damn thing to do with that. I would STRONGLY suggest not messing with the pushrod length. It's very easy to get it wrong and block the compensating ports inside the master cylinder.  This will cause your brakes to lock as you drive and they heat up and can damage the master cylinder. I learned this the hard way many years ago. 

At any rate, you definitely don't go messing with the brake pushrod length before you've gotten all the bleeder valves freed up.