[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

William J catnine09 at dslextreme.com
Wed Apr 20 11:34:05 PDT 2016

 I still say you need to remove all the bleeder screws and check the 2 small 
holes on the inner end of the bleeder screws and also the one the fluid 
bleeds out of . I you don't you are wasting your time.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J. Jonik" <j_jonik at yahoo.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:55 AM
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding Update

> 71  Squareback:
> Brake pedal still can't be adjusted correctly, and still needs to be 
> pumped a couple of times to work OK.
> The situation:
> - Made sure brake pads, front and rear, were good thickness.
> - Freed up and greased one of the rear adjustment gear things.
> - No leaks anywhere.
> - Reservoir filled to proper level. Cap loosened, and hand-brake off, when 
> bleeding.
> - Top valve in a front double-valve caliper is frozen in place.
> - Wheels, with car raised, all cannot be turned when brake pedal is pushed 
> down with a stick pushing against the driver's seat.
> Still, only one of the front valves, when opened, produces a good squirt 
> and lets pedal go to the floor during bleeding.  The other front one (with 
> the frozen 2nd valve) does a little squirt.  None produce apparent 
> air...just a dribbling flow of fluid.
> (Doesn't that fluid, and the fact that brakes hold the wheels solidly, 
> show that hoses aren't blocked?)
> I'd hate to just try a new Master Cylinder, just in case that's the 
> problem.  Found new master cylinders on-line for about $35.  Worth a try?
> Long shot:  What about re-adjusting...lengthening...the push-rod from 
> pedal to cylinder?  How bad must car rust be to make that go out of 
> adjustment?
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