[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

[Dave Hall]

I've just re-read the factory method for changing the brake fluid (dual
circuit). It says to remove most of the fluid from the reservoir and replace
with fresh.  It also quotes the number of pedal strokes needed for each
wheel, and gives the approximate fluid quantity, which if you're using
gravity to do it, could be helpful to know.

Right front 30 strokes, 100 cc; left front 15 strokes 50 cc; right rear 25
strokes, 80 cc; left rear 10 strokes, 30 cc.  It doesn't say this is
different for LHD and RHD, but I may have to modify the figures for my
right-hand drive to take account of the different pipe-runs relative to M/C
and reservoir positions.  There are about 30 cc (ml) to a fluid ounce.

If you pump the pedal, you'll need to have someone close the bleed up each
return stroke to be sure of keeping air out.  The preferred machine
pressurises the system to a few psi and keeps the reservoir topped up,
allowing a single mechanic to do the job.

With fluid being topped up as necessary in the reservoir, and no pumping on
the pedal, you shouldn't get air into the front calipers as the system
remains full of fluid. Use the drain screws at the bottom if you've the
choice.

For dual circuit, you always do the front first, whether bleeding or
changing fluid.

For single circuit brakes, you start with the furthest from the M/C.

These old factory manuals make great reading!

Enjoy the quality time with your Type 3.

Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William J
Sent: 13 May 2016 19:24
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

Just so I've got this right. If I remove most of the fluid from the
reservoir then strarting with the right front caliper I should open the
lower bleeder  and this will gravity drain all the fluid from both pistons
or do I need to also open the top bleeder and of course maintain the
reservoir level ? Then do the left front then R rear the L rear each one at
a time? So if I keep the reservoir full this will not only flush or drain
out all the old fluid and also not introduce air into the system ? I'm
calling this drain/ gravity bleed , I have the time. If for some reason air
is introduced then I go to the hose and jar method ? I have read that  air
can be pulled in through the bleeder screw threads or is this only an issue
if one backs out the bleeders more than cracking them say a 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB


> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the 
> lower
> end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a bleed screw
> and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the fluid squirts out
> of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for single-handed 
> bleeding,
> but rather slow for changing fluid.
>
> Dave
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
>
>
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