[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

[73 squareback Cincy]

Nice you guys are talking about this. my rear pretty much brand new but 
old wheel cylinder is leaking and gonna have to replace it. on a dual 
circuit setup.
Always need a refresher. its been over 15 years since i redid the whole 
brake system and only 2000 miles on my squareback
:) Getting er back on the road a little at a time.
Chris537

On 5/13/2016 10:45 PM, Dave Hall wrote:
> I've just re-read the factory method for changing the brake fluid (dual
> circuit). It says to remove most of the fluid from the reservoir and replace
> with fresh.  It also quotes the number of pedal strokes needed for each
> wheel, and gives the approximate fluid quantity, which if you're using
> gravity to do it, could be helpful to know.
>
> Right front 30 strokes, 100 cc; left front 15 strokes 50 cc; right rear 25
> strokes, 80 cc; left rear 10 strokes, 30 cc.  It doesn't say this is
> different for LHD and RHD, but I may have to modify the figures for my
> right-hand drive to take account of the different pipe-runs relative to M/C
> and reservoir positions.  There are about 30 cc (ml) to a fluid ounce.
>
> If you pump the pedal, you'll need to have someone close the bleed up each
> return stroke to be sure of keeping air out.  The preferred machine
> pressurises the system to a few psi and keeps the reservoir topped up,
> allowing a single mechanic to do the job.
>
> With fluid being topped up as necessary in the reservoir, and no pumping on
> the pedal, you shouldn't get air into the front calipers as the system
> remains full of fluid. Use the drain screws at the bottom if you've the
> choice.
>
> For dual circuit, you always do the front first, whether bleeding or
> changing fluid.
>
> For single circuit brakes, you start with the furthest from the M/C.
>
> These old factory manuals make great reading!
>
> Enjoy the quality time with your Type 3.
>
> Dave
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William J
> Sent: 13 May 2016 19:24
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
>
> Just so I've got this right. If I remove most of the fluid from the
> reservoir then strarting with the right front caliper I should open the
> lower bleeder  and this will gravity drain all the fluid from both pistons
> or do I need to also open the top bleeder and of course maintain the
> reservoir level ? Then do the left front then R rear the L rear each one at
> a time? So if I keep the reservoir full this will not only flush or drain
> out all the old fluid and also not introduce air into the system ? I'm
> calling this drain/ gravity bleed , I have the time. If for some reason air
> is introduced then I go to the hose and jar method ? I have read that  air
> can be pulled in through the bleeder screw threads or is this only an issue
> if one backs out the bleeders more than cracking them say a 1/4 or 1/2 turn.
>
> William
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 5:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
>
>
>> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
>> lower
>> end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a bleed screw
>> and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the fluid squirts out
>> of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for single-handed
>> bleeding,
>> but rather slow for changing fluid.
>>
>> Dave
>> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
>> ===================
>>
>>
>>
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