[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

[William J]

 I wanted to add on disc brake pads I got them at Autozone . They had two 
choices . I found you cannot go by their photo's . I prefer the ones with 
the slots like the original ones had . The one set and both were the same 
price had no slots nad the pad material was black yet they did have thin 
metal clip on anti squeal deal of the backing. The others had the groove and 
just power coated backing and what looks like copper since they are semi 
metalic . They were both listed as semi metalic yet I didn't see any on the 
ones with the metal covers with the black color pads.

 I just chose the ones with the groove and they look very much like the ones 
I have on the car now which were also organic metalic.

 There are so many choices I just tried to stay with what I had. I have no 
idea what's best . I shop at autozone because it's a block away .

William

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB


> I've just re-read the factory method for changing the brake fluid (dual
> circuit). It says to remove most of the fluid from the reservoir and 
> replace
> with fresh.  It also quotes the number of pedal strokes needed for each
> wheel, and gives the approximate fluid quantity, which if you're using
> gravity to do it, could be helpful to know.
>
> Right front 30 strokes, 100 cc; left front 15 strokes 50 cc; right rear 25
> strokes, 80 cc; left rear 10 strokes, 30 cc.  It doesn't say this is
> different for LHD and RHD, but I may have to modify the figures for my
> right-hand drive to take account of the different pipe-runs relative to 
> M/C
> and reservoir positions.  There are about 30 cc (ml) to a fluid ounce.
>
> If you pump the pedal, you'll need to have someone close the bleed up each
> return stroke to be sure of keeping air out.  The preferred machine
> pressurises the system to a few psi and keeps the reservoir topped up,
> allowing a single mechanic to do the job.
>
> With fluid being topped up as necessary in the reservoir, and no pumping 
> on
> the pedal, you shouldn't get air into the front calipers as the system
> remains full of fluid. Use the drain screws at the bottom if you've the
> choice.
>
> For dual circuit, you always do the front first, whether bleeding or
> changing fluid.
>
> For single circuit brakes, you start with the furthest from the M/C.
>
> These old factory manuals make great reading!
>
> Enjoy the quality time with your Type 3.
>
> Dave
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org 
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William J
> Sent: 13 May 2016 19:24
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
>
> Just so I've got this right. If I remove most of the fluid from the
> reservoir then strarting with the right front caliper I should open the
> lower bleeder  and this will gravity drain all the fluid from both pistons
> or do I need to also open the top bleeder and of course maintain the
> reservoir level ? Then do the left front then R rear the L rear each one 
> at
> a time? So if I keep the reservoir full this will not only flush or drain
> out all the old fluid and also not introduce air into the system ? I'm
> calling this drain/ gravity bleed , I have the time. If for some reason 
> air
> is introduced then I go to the hose and jar method ? I have read that  air
> can be pulled in through the bleeder screw threads or is this only an 
> issue
> if one backs out the bleeders more than cracking them say a 1/4 or 1/2 
> turn.
>
> William
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 5:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
>
>
>> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
>> lower
>> end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a bleed screw
>> and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the fluid squirts 
>> out
>> of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for single-handed
>> bleeding,
>> but rather slow for changing fluid.
>>
>> Dave
>> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
>> ===================
>>
>>
>>
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