[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

William J catnine09 at dslextreme.com
Sat May 14 13:08:03 PDT 2016


I'm a bit lost now . So may different ways posted which I appreciate .

 If I pump the pedal to drain do I need to have all 4 bleeders open ? Can I 
just do it one at a time ? I thought the idea was to get all the old fluid 
out and I have 6 feet of 4mm or 5/32" ID black rubber hose and intend on 
using small zip ties so the hose stays put. I wanted enough hose in case I 
had to drain all 4 at the same time yet don't think it is the way to go.

 Won't the fluid drain out if I just crack one bleeder and allow it to drain 
by gravity then move onto the next in sequence per RF ,LF so on.? Or can I 
crack say the RF bleeder and pump a few times then let gravity take over?

William
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2016 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB


> On 13 May 2016 at 22:25, Dave Hall wrote:
>
>> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
>> lower end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a
>> bleed screw and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the
>> fluid squirts out of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for
>> single-handed bleeding, but rather slow for changing fluid.
>
> It's a standard chem lab trick, except that instead of a screw, you
> use something inert, like a glass or ceramic bead that's slightly
> larger than the ID of the tubing. For brake fluid, a steel ball
> bearing would be a good choice.
>
> Frankly, I considered doing this, but the plain tube in the bottle
> works perfectly well. Backwash on the upstroke is minimal, so nothing
> but fluid gets drawn back in if the upstroke is quick and the tube
> runs a bit uphill from the bleed valve. And even if you suck in a
> tiny bubble, gravity flow will bring it out a second or 2 later, so I
> often don't even bother with the uphill part.
>
> Maybe the key is how you pump. Do it quickly, both up and
> downstrokes. If you watch the tube while someone else does this,
> you'll see the fluid move out into the tube 2-4 inches on each
> downstroke and back up maybe 1/4" on each upstroke. Fast pumps are
> also important for creating turbulence in the system, which helps
> stir up dirt & rust and carry it out of the system.
>
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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