[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

[Mike Fisher]

Just install the new brake pads & forget about changing out the brake
fluid.  I've never gotten that anal to flush & replace brake fluid!  You'll
end up stuck with no brakes & no help?  :-)

On Sat, May 14, 2016 at 1:08 PM, William J <catnine09 at dslextreme.com> wrote:

> I'm a bit lost now . So may different ways posted which I appreciate .
>
> If I pump the pedal to drain do I need to have all 4 bleeders open ? Can I
> just do it one at a time ? I thought the idea was to get all the old fluid
> out and I have 6 feet of 4mm or 5/32" ID black rubber hose and intend on
> using small zip ties so the hose stays put. I wanted enough hose in case I
> had to drain all 4 at the same time yet don't think it is the way to go.
>
> Won't the fluid drain out if I just crack one bleeder and allow it to
> drain by gravity then move onto the next in sequence per RF ,LF so on.? Or
> can I crack say the RF bleeder and pump a few times then let gravity take
> over?
>
> William
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2016 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
>
>
>
> On 13 May 2016 at 22:25, Dave Hall wrote:
>>
>> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
>>> lower end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a
>>> bleed screw and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the
>>> fluid squirts out of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for
>>> single-handed bleeding, but rather slow for changing fluid.
>>>
>>
>> It's a standard chem lab trick, except that instead of a screw, you
>> use something inert, like a glass or ceramic bead that's slightly
>> larger than the ID of the tubing. For brake fluid, a steel ball
>> bearing would be a good choice.
>>
>> Frankly, I considered doing this, but the plain tube in the bottle
>> works perfectly well. Backwash on the upstroke is minimal, so nothing
>> but fluid gets drawn back in if the upstroke is quick and the tube
>> runs a bit uphill from the bleed valve. And even if you suck in a
>> tiny bubble, gravity flow will bring it out a second or 2 later, so I
>> often don't even bother with the uphill part.
>>
>> Maybe the key is how you pump. Do it quickly, both up and
>> downstrokes. If you watch the tube while someone else does this,
>> you'll see the fluid move out into the tube 2-4 inches on each
>> downstroke and back up maybe 1/4" on each upstroke. Fast pumps are
>> also important for creating turbulence in the system, which helps
>> stir up dirt & rust and carry it out of the system.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>>
>
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

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