[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

[William J]

Trouble is Mike the brake fluid is now over 12 years old.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Fisher" <fisherfarms at gmail.com>
To: "T3 List" <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2016 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB


> Just install the new brake pads & forget about changing out the brake
> fluid.  I've never gotten that anal to flush & replace brake fluid! 
> You'll
> end up stuck with no brakes & no help?  :-)
>
> On Sat, May 14, 2016 at 1:08 PM, William J <catnine09 at dslextreme.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm a bit lost now . So may different ways posted which I appreciate .
>>
>> If I pump the pedal to drain do I need to have all 4 bleeders open ? Can 
>> I
>> just do it one at a time ? I thought the idea was to get all the old 
>> fluid
>> out and I have 6 feet of 4mm or 5/32" ID black rubber hose and intend on
>> using small zip ties so the hose stays put. I wanted enough hose in case 
>> I
>> had to drain all 4 at the same time yet don't think it is the way to go.
>>
>> Won't the fluid drain out if I just crack one bleeder and allow it to
>> drain by gravity then move onto the next in sequence per RF ,LF so on.? 
>> Or
>> can I crack say the RF bleeder and pump a few times then let gravity take
>> over?
>>
>> William
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
>> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
>> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2016 8:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 
>> SB
>>
>>
>>
>> On 13 May 2016 at 22:25, Dave Hall wrote:
>>>
>>> I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
>>>> lower end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a
>>>> bleed screw and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the
>>>> fluid squirts out of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for
>>>> single-handed bleeding, but rather slow for changing fluid.
>>>>
>>>
>>> It's a standard chem lab trick, except that instead of a screw, you
>>> use something inert, like a glass or ceramic bead that's slightly
>>> larger than the ID of the tubing. For brake fluid, a steel ball
>>> bearing would be a good choice.
>>>
>>> Frankly, I considered doing this, but the plain tube in the bottle
>>> works perfectly well. Backwash on the upstroke is minimal, so nothing
>>> but fluid gets drawn back in if the upstroke is quick and the tube
>>> runs a bit uphill from the bleed valve. And even if you suck in a
>>> tiny bubble, gravity flow will bring it out a second or 2 later, so I
>>> often don't even bother with the uphill part.
>>>
>>> Maybe the key is how you pump. Do it quickly, both up and
>>> downstrokes. If you watch the tube while someone else does this,
>>> you'll see the fluid move out into the tube 2-4 inches on each
>>> downstroke and back up maybe 1/4" on each upstroke. Fast pumps are
>>> also important for creating turbulence in the system, which helps
>>> stir up dirt & rust and carry it out of the system.
>>>
>>> --
>>> *******************************
>>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>>> *******************************
>>>
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>>>
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Eugene, Oregon
>
> http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
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