[T3] Why is it that when I got my 73SBIneverhadtoturnthekeysevera...

[William J]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Why is it that when I got my 
73SBIneverhadtoturnthekeysevera...


> On 12 Aug 2017 at 10:05, William J wrote:
>
>>  I have the switch with the two wires soldered to it all I need to do
>> is find a place and wire it in. If I recall the pump ground and hot
>> come out under the relay and the pump hot goes to a plastic covered
>> connector on the realy so I can splice in between the relay and where
>> the pumps hot lead enters through the fire wall. It's a two wire
>> plastic covered cable. I have a few of those brass 1/4" adaptors one
>> female and two male I can use yet don't want to destroy the plastic two
>> lead plug on the relay.

 Jim this switch connection seems simple I added a detailed description in a 
later post . In one reply you said this .
" The pump normally draws 2-4 A, so that switch will be more than enough. I
like to connect the switch across the relay so that it uses the same fuse as 
in
normal operation. So you turn the key ON, hold the switch until you stop
hearing bubbles coming up in the tank, and then start the engine."

 If I understand this relay and I do it's like any other standard relay . If 
you turn on the key the coil is energized normal 1 1/2 second delay 
controlled by the ECU #85 & #86 open after that time . The red + from the 
relay to the pump is on #87 the pumps ground is to the dash or frame always 
there. The 12 volt + is hot all the time key off. #30/51 on the relay. The 
way you describe it the primer switch wired as you say once the key is on 
the 1 1/2 sec ends 30/51 + and # 87 contact now open then at this point the 
primer switch now completes the circuit from #30/51 to #87 pump runs no 
1/1/2 sec until key is off then on again . I didn't use the same fuse and 
it's also hot key off  I just placed my switch direct to the fuse leave the 
key off relay is open then tied the other wire from the switch to #87 
basically spliced it using a piggyback . Once I close the switch it just 
completes the circuit between in your setup the 8 amp fuse hot all the time 
+ to #87 to the pump + . Pump runs key off now it's primed release switch 
turn the key to start as it normally would just with the 1 1/2 sec delay 
after the prime yet if I turn the key without waiting the 1 1/2 sec I won't 
have any extra prime the starter will perform that. Both ways will work with 
a simple normally open momentary contact switch like the push buttom one you 
first came out with. Just a bit different priming procedure.

 Next next paragraph I'm lost since there is only one single terminal on the 
relay which goes to the pumps + wire and the only other terminal left that 
would allow the switch to complete the circuit to run the pump has to be 
#30/#51 which is Batt + hot all the time. The only paired on that is B+ 
30/51 there are none on mine paired in the relay they meet up through a few 
connectors on one I saw in the Bentley Page18 fuel system 30/51 is paired at 
the relay both do the same thing yet the later models like mine #87 sends 
power to not only the AAR yet also the EGR valve pin #29 , both power the 
AAR off #87 .


>
> Don't do anything to the 2 wires in the plastic connector! Those are for 
> the
> relay coil and you don't need to touch those.
>
> Use the piggyback connectors to connect your 2 switch wires to 2 of the
> remaining pins on the relay. One wire to the single terminal and one wire 
> to
> either of the 2 that are paired. If your car is MT you'll only need one
> piggyback connector.
>
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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