[T3] Vapor Lock- Fuel Boil Off
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Fri May 19 14:45:09 PDT 2017
In a message dated 5/19/2017 9:23:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
elpuerco66 at gmail.com writes:
> Do the carbs have the insulating bakelite spacers under them?
Yes. It only delays the boil off somewhat.
Is engine built on a newer all aluminum engine case? Just asking, as my
own 65 Notch has an all aluminum engine case, and I vapor locked 2 mechanical
fuel pumps with heat coming from the case. If you leave the engine running
after a freeway run, does it continue to run afterward? Or does it just
shut down?
On my own car, if after running down the freeway, if you stopped at a rest
area and shut it off, it would vapor lock from sitting there (it would
re-fire, go about 1/8th of a mile and shut down). The reason being you just
drained the fuel bowls of fuel. But, if you let idle while you were "doing
your business", it would keep running fine. I ended going to a Mr.Gasket low
pressure electric fuel pump. Part number S042 (2.5 to 3 PSI) pump, that can
be found almost anywhere (O'Rielly's, Autozone, NAPA, CarQuest, Advanced
Auto), for around 50 bucks. Since then, I've never had a fuel related problem
with the car, and that's been 7 years ago that I went electric pump.
You want an electric pump that puts out 2.5 to 3 PSI. Anything over 3 PSI
will over ride the needle and seat of the carbs, and flood the engine. I
just thought I'd point this out, as Mike suggested you find a higher pressure
pump that can cause a problem.
But yes, you need to run the phenolic spacers between the carbs and the
manifold, along with thick paper gaskets between the manifolds and the heads.
Don't use the steel gaskets that bugs use, or you'll have problems.
One more thing, Does the engine have normal under cylinder cool tins?
Super cool tins? Or no cool tins? If the later, that's your over heating
problem.
I hope this helps.
Bob 65 Notch w/Factory Sunroof converted to IRS
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