[T3] Vapor Lock- Fuel Boil Off

Bobsnotch at aol.com Bobsnotch at aol.com
Fri May 19 14:45:09 PDT 2017


In a message dated 5/19/2017 9:23:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
elpuerco66 at gmail.com writes:

> Do  the carbs have the insulating bakelite spacers under them?
Yes.  It  only delays the boil off somewhat.
Is engine built on a newer all aluminum engine case? Just asking, as  my 
own 65 Notch has an all aluminum engine case, and I vapor locked 2 mechanical  
fuel pumps with heat coming from the case. If you leave the engine running 
after  a freeway run, does it continue to run afterward? Or does it just 
shut  down?  
 
On my own car, if after running down the freeway, if you stopped at a  rest 
area and shut it off, it would vapor lock from sitting there (it would  
re-fire, go about 1/8th of a mile and shut down). The reason being you just  
drained the fuel bowls of fuel. But, if you let idle while you were "doing  
your business", it would keep running fine. I ended going to a Mr.Gasket low  
pressure electric fuel pump. Part number S042 (2.5 to 3 PSI) pump, that can 
be  found almost anywhere (O'Rielly's, Autozone, NAPA, CarQuest, Advanced 
Auto), for  around 50 bucks. Since then, I've never had a fuel related problem 
with the car,  and that's been 7 years ago that I went electric pump. 
 
You want an electric pump that puts out 2.5 to 3 PSI. Anything over 3  PSI 
will over ride the needle and seat of the carbs, and flood the engine. I  
just thought I'd point this out, as Mike suggested you find a higher pressure  
pump that can cause a problem.
 
But yes, you need to run the phenolic spacers between the carbs and  the 
manifold, along with thick paper gaskets between the manifolds and the  heads. 
Don't use the steel gaskets that bugs use, or you'll have  problems.
 
One more thing, Does the engine have normal under cylinder cool tins?  
Super cool tins? Or no cool tins? If the later, that's your over heating  
problem.
I hope this helps.
 

Bob 65 Notch  w/Factory Sunroof converted to  IRS
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