[T3] Question about 73 T-3 oil cooler mounting.

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 10/11/2017 4:55:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
catnine09 at dslextreme.com writes:

I'm not  about the pull the cylinders because the long bolts are not up 
(threads top of  cooler. 

I would just like to know what was used as far and washers and  lock 
washers on the one stud and 2 bolts.
I don't have my Bentley handy, but the bolts do come up from  underneath. 
The reason behind doing so, is so the owner/technician can see that  the nuts 
are still in place.
Since you don't want to tear that side of the engine down to fix it,  then 
there's nothing to do about it, other than watch for oil  drips.
 
On the engine I have in my Notch (all aluminum universal aftermarket  
case), the bolts are installed upside down (the engine was built before the oil  
cooler was installed), the small wave washer is located under the bolt head, 
 while the "spacers" are on the bottom, under the nuts. I used 6 mm nylocks 
on  them, as I couldn't see if the nuts vibrated loose or not. It's been 
like that  since 2006.
I also have a converted to type 3 cooling type 1 engine. That engine  has 
stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts coming from the top as well. It's been  
like that since 1996. That engine also went to the 2004 Type 3 Invasion in  
Hershey PA. I still haven't had the nuts/bolts loosen up on it, even after 
all  these years.
Both engines did have the center oil cooler stud mounting hole opened  up 
for 8 mm stud clearance and stud assembly. I did that because I didn't have  
a 8mm to 6 mm step down stud (for either engine).
 
I hope this helps
 
Bob 65 Notch  w/Factory Sunroof converted to  IRS
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/pipermail/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20171011/68d91694/attachment.html>