[T3] Question about 73 T-3 oil cooler mounting.
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Wed Oct 11 19:48:50 PDT 2017
In a message dated 10/11/2017 4:55:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
catnine09 at dslextreme.com writes:
I'm not about the pull the cylinders because the long bolts are not up
(threads top of cooler.
I would just like to know what was used as far and washers and lock
washers on the one stud and 2 bolts.
I don't have my Bentley handy, but the bolts do come up from underneath.
The reason behind doing so, is so the owner/technician can see that the nuts
are still in place.
Since you don't want to tear that side of the engine down to fix it, then
there's nothing to do about it, other than watch for oil drips.
On the engine I have in my Notch (all aluminum universal aftermarket
case), the bolts are installed upside down (the engine was built before the oil
cooler was installed), the small wave washer is located under the bolt head,
while the "spacers" are on the bottom, under the nuts. I used 6 mm nylocks
on them, as I couldn't see if the nuts vibrated loose or not. It's been
like that since 2006.
I also have a converted to type 3 cooling type 1 engine. That engine has
stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts coming from the top as well. It's been
like that since 1996. That engine also went to the 2004 Type 3 Invasion in
Hershey PA. I still haven't had the nuts/bolts loosen up on it, even after
all these years.
Both engines did have the center oil cooler stud mounting hole opened up
for 8 mm stud clearance and stud assembly. I did that because I didn't have
a 8mm to 6 mm step down stud (for either engine).
I hope this helps
Bob 65 Notch w/Factory Sunroof converted to IRS
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