[T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Fri Jun 21 11:45:28 PDT 2019


Keith :

 I was just curious what part did you oil ? Was it just where the shaft of
the valve fits through above the thermal spring . What did you use to oil
it?

 When I took mine apart the valve was sticking in the bore and would not
close. I was thinking I should have oiled the bore the valve fits in yet
due to the heat I was afraid any oil would get cooked and cause the valve
to bind again. Quite a bit of old baked on oil come out when I used carb
cleaner and using carb cleaner to get the baked on oil out just seemed to
make it worse so I had to take the valve out. What I found was a fine sort
of surface rust in the steel bore that slightly scored the bore and the
valve which is stainless steal . I just polished the bore and valve until
all the scoring and rust was gone. It appeared to me that over time
moisture from the air causes the rust  well before the oil gets baked on
and the scoring allowed the oil to cling to the bore and valve. I felt if I
oiled it lightly it would help the valve rotate easier and prevent any rust
to begin. . It works now, I can always work some oil into the valve through
the 2 ports . I have no idea if when these were made if they lubed the
valve or not.

William

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019 at 10:42 AM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

>
> I did not, it was not that badly stuck and with a cleaning of Tri Tet
> and re oiling it was nice and smooth
>
> Keith
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
> "hanging out at the tail end of the bell
> curve, and loving every minute of it!"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2019 1:48 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's
>
> just did the AAR on my 73 cut slots with a razor saw bent them up . what
> seemed to cause mine to stick open was a fine surface rust in the valves
> bore. I tried to clean the oil gunk out which carb cleaner spray did. The
> valve is stainless the valve bore is steel . I think it's the moisture
> which all air has no matter oil bath or paper filter . The moisture causes
> fine surface rust to form in the bore and scores it then this gives
> something for the oil gunk to cling to rather than pass by. I polished the
> valve and bore and then the valve moved freely. The only thing I didn't
> think to do was lube the valve. I wasn't sure if I should use a light
> coating of engine oil or thin grease. I can always place some oil on the
> valve even after I crimped it back together maybe SAE 40 so it does not
> leak down into the heating coil then just apply power to cycle the valve to
> allow the oil to lightly coat the bore just to prevent rust. I have not
> idea when made it they lubed the valve. The rust seems to take decades to
> develop . It's a fine rust yet abrasive enough to slightly score the bore
> and the valve. If I need to open it again I will not recrimp yet use small
> machine screws and perhaps a thin gasket . The most difficult part was
> getting the air filter end pipe back in place since it needs to be removed
> the clean the valve and bore.
>
>  Keith did you remove the valve?
>
> William
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 6:27 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > Well I opened the heated AAR, its not difficult to roll the lip up with
> the
> > right set of sharp end cutters, it looks worse than it is, then it opens
> > right up.  Jim is right, the adjustment controls length of time its open,
> > unlike the L jet kind.  I needed all the open hose could give me so I
> > dremeled out the slot opening as much as I could, cleaned and lube it and
> > put it back together with epoxy.  Just about right now, 1000 RPM idle
> when
> > started and warms up just fine.
> >
> > there is usually a way to make something do what you need if your willing
> > to
> > go all the way...
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > Topnotch Restorations
> > topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> > http://www.topnotchresto.com
> > 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> > 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> > 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> > 95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
> > "hanging out at the tail end of the bell
> > curve, and loving every minute of it!"
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> > type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> > On Behalf Of Jim Adney
> > Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 10:02 AM
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Arc's sparks and missing the mark's
> >
> > On 7 Jun 2019 at 22:48, Keith Park wrote:
> >
> > > BTW, the automatic heated AAR's ARE adjustable, you just have to pull
> the
> > > lip back to get them apart and that can be a bit of a challenge, but
> once
> > > inside, it has the same adjustable slot that the engine heated T3 units
> > > do.
> >
> > That adjusts the full opening and closing temps, but not the amount of
> air
> > that gets thru. I thought you were wanting more air, not just more air at
> > intermediate temps.
> >
> > There was a thread on thesamba about taking these apart a few years ago.
> > Interesting, but more work than most of us would ever want to go thru. I
> > was
> >
> > under the impression that the steel lip that had to be uncurled was
> really
> > thick and strong; seemed like something that would fight you all the way.
> > I
> > didn't remember that there was an adjustment inside.
> >
> > I've never tried to open one. It just seemed like one of those things
> that
> > you'd
> > have to almost destroy to get it apart.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
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